Model Pokemon Go Plus + Kanto Pokedex ReShell

[CosmicRazberry]

Finally reached a V1 milestone for my Pokemon Go Plus+ ReShell project. Everything now fits together and is working, so I am going to be stress testing it and finding any issues over the next few weeks. I added some pictures below and attached the STL/3MF files for what I have so far. Here is a small list of the features and upgrades over the original case.

- Upgraded battery from 525mAh Joycon battery to removable/replaceable 1500mAh 14500 cell
- Added Power switch on side of device to cutoff the connection between battery and device to reduce phantom power drain as it is always on by default
- Modded to automatically throw Great Balls and Ultra balls. Wired to 3D printed front facing slider switch
- Rewired Sync button to custom 3D printed fake D pad on device face
- Pokedex "Screen" is custom button to interact with device
- Hidden 2x6mm magnets beneath cover and faceplate to keep device from swinging open
- Hinge uses 2 bearings with an 80mm M6 bolt and is very smooth!
- All screw posts designed with M1.4 screws and brass inserts in mind for clean assembly

Currently brainstorming the final details. I just have a few problems to resolve and decisions to make. I currently don't have a mount for the speaker, but most people remove them when modding the Go Plus over how loud and annoying it is. I did leave room for it in the top right above the screen, just not sure if I am going to bother modeling it in. Then I need to decide if I am going to reroute/rewire the charging light indicator LED somewhere visible as right now its hidden inside the shell. It appears to be an RGB LED that changes between red/orange/yellow/green depending on charge etc and not sure how its wired. It's also very small so would take some reverse engineering and delicat soldering for a project I wanted to keep as 'drop in replacement' as possible. I also need to decide how to finish the "screen". I am thinking of just printing some sort of image on sticker paper and putting it on the screen. That way it could be customized with some pokemon/meme image and the light from the Button may still shine through the plastic/paper. Then lastly I need to figure what I am going to print the final product out of, and how to "finish" it. My current thinking is to use Red/Gray ASA filament so it can weather being outside in sunlight on hot days, just not sure if I want to try and fully paint a blank model, or print it in red filament.

Any feedback or suggestions would be helpful!

Some extra images:

 

[StormEye45]

i wonder for that frame is there any way you could extend it a bit so you can slide down an image at the top rather than a sticker?

 

[CosmicRazberry]

i wonder for that frame is there any way you could extend it a bit so you can slide down an image at the top rather than a sticker?

Thanks for the feedback! But I am not quite sure what you mean? I don't know if there is any room for a slide mechanism for something this small? Its about the size of a deck of cards.

For now I am pretty happy with how it shaping up. Its simple, compact and customizable. Its just a button printed in transparent PETG and you can stick whatever image you want to act as the screen. Then when you press the button the image will glow from the backlight.

 

[StormEye45]

Thanks for the feedback! But I am not quite sure what you mean? I don't know if there is any room for a slide mechanism for something this small? Its about the size of a deck of cards.

For now I am pretty happy with how it shaping up. Its simple, compact and customizable. Its just a button printed in transparent PETG and you can stick whatever image you want to act as the screen. Then when you press the button the image will glow from the backlight.

View attachment 43679

that is such a cool idea, and it seems to work fine. sorry if my idea was a bit far fetched

 

[CosmicRazberry]

Thanks, Ideas and suggestions are always welcome! I just don't know how to implement them sometimes

 

[Hutzi]

Hi CosmicRazberry,

awesome project — this is exactly what I’ve been looking for! My Go Plus+ has started freezing up (worn-out battery, most likely), so a reshell with a replaceable 14500 is the perfect excuse to finally give it a proper home. A friend will print the parts for me, and I’ve already identified most of the hardware from your photos and the 3MF (Vapcell F15, MR106 bearings, M6x80 bolt, 6x2 mm magnets, M1.4 inserts).

A few details I couldn’t figure out from the post — would you mind sharing?

1. Slide switches: Which switch models did you use for the side power switch and behind the front-facing ball slider (SS-12D00 or something else)?
2. Great/Ultra Ball mod wiring: How exactly is the slider wired up — what does it switch on the PCB to make the auto-throw use Great/Ultra Balls?
3. Sync button / D-pad: Did you wire a small tactile switch under the D-pad, or did you reuse the original rubber membrane contact?
4. Screws: Could you confirm the M1.4 screw lengths you used (back shell / faceplate / battery cover)?
5. Battery contacts: The +/− contacts in the battery bay — are those standard AA-style spring/button contacts, or something specific?

Any assembly tips or gotchas from your stress testing would be hugely appreciated too. Thanks for sharing the files — happy to post pictures of my build once it’s done!

 

[CosmicRazberry]

Any assembly tips or gotchas from your stress testing would be hugely appreciated too. Thanks for sharing the files — happy to post pictures of my build once it’s done!

Hey thanks for reaching out! I honestly forgot I posted about this project here. I posted the finished project files with some more information on Makerworld It includes a list of materials but I will add that information here as well. https://makerworld.com/en/models/3025592-pokemon-go-plus-shell-mod#profileId-3399838

Regarding your questions:
1. Slide Switchs: from Amazon, the same ones people buy for the traditional Ultra/Great ball throw mod. - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09R43HCY3?th=1
2. Great/Ultra Ball modding: There are a few documented ways of doing this. Any of them work and there are a bunch of guides on how to do so online. But the two main methods are connecting the rumble motor signal to a test pad for the face button, or connecting the Green LED light signal to thee same test pad. This will cause either the rumble signal or the Green LED light up signal to cause a "button press." Thats why you have the switch to turn this on or off you are basically creating a purposeful short on the board.

No Rumble:

With Rumble:

Green Light:

3. Sync button / D-pad: You should beable to see more details in the pictures from the makerworld post but yeah I did reuse the membrane for the main button, and soldered a new button for the sync button. These are the soldering points I used for the sync button. Its a tactile button soldered onto a cutup PCB prototyping board. I just cutup a cheap set from amazon with my dremel and used it as a platform so I could screw the button stably to the case.

4. Screws: All screws were the same M1.4 x 3mm screws with M1.4 brass inserts.
5. Battery Terminals: They were standard AA springs from amazon - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F28K9FDV


As for tips, I would say remember to turn off the device with the slide switch I added if your really want the battery to last. Even with the bigger battery it will still be dead the next time you pick it up after a while of not charging it. The device is still on 24/7 without turning it off so it will eventually wear through the big battery as well. Also it is still a 3D printed device, I love it and its cool, but its not as durable as the original. You can't just thoughtlessly throw it in your bag and expect it to not get damaged in some way. Also I ended up with parts you have to glue on because I didn't want to 3D print with multiple colors at the same time so that adds to its "fragility". But overall happy. Hope this helps and let me know if you have any more questions. I will update this post with the same details from the Makerworld post eventually. And hopefully have an even more detailed guide eventually.