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Also, suggestions for the introduction thread are welcome!

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What’s the best portable from the BitBuild community to make as a starter build! – Nintendo Edition

Basically, What’s the best portable from the BitBuild community to make as a starter build?

(One Console = One Portable)

All Nintendo Consoles

Color TV-Game Series

Game & Watch

Nintendo Entertainment System

Game Boy / Game Boy Color

SNES

Virtual Boy

Nintendo 64

GameCube

Game Boy Advance

Nintendo DS

Wii

3DS

Wii U

Nintendo Switch

Nintendo Switch 2

(And yes, some consoles like the Wii U don’t have portables, and some consoles like the 3DS are handhelds, but I’m just listing all consoles from Nintendo.)
 
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The wii has some of the most documentation and guides. Challenging but rewarding with all the mods you can do with it. Maybe try an ashida build.
 
What’s the best portable from the BitBuild community to make as a starter build! – Nintendo Edition

Basically, What’s the best portable from the BitBuild community to make as a starter build?

(One Console = One Portable)

All Nintendo Consoles

Color TV-Game Series

Game & Watch

Nintendo Entertainment System

Game Boy / Game Boy Color

SNES

Virtual Boy

Nintendo 64

GameCube

Game Boy Advance

Nintendo DS

Wii

3DS

Wii U

Nintendo Switch

Nintendo Switch 2

(And yes, some consoles like the Wii U don’t have portables, and some consoles like the 3DS are handhelds, but I’m just listing all consoles from Nintendo.)
My dude you need to cut this out. All you ever seem to post are these chatGPT-esque schizo lists and it's becoming a problem.

Stop asking the same essay question and just make a damn Wii.
Look up the Ashida, G-Boy, and G-Wii, and pick one.
 
if I'm in a well-ventilated room and solder right next to a window, is it enough to just have a fan pointing towards the window for ventilation? and adding to that, are there even any affordable fume extractors? I've heard that most of the cheap ones ($100-) aren't very good, and if just being in a well-ventilated space is enough I don't want to spend money on something I don't need. I also plan on wearing a leftover face mask from the pandemic while soldering.
also (maybe this is a stupid question) I'm afraid that dampening the sponge (the one I use to clean my iron) in the sink might get lead in the sink and I'm afraid that that could maybe cause issues(?) but I don't know how else I would dampen it.

and while I'm at it, is the Pinecil still any good? I've seen a few people (especially those in this community) recommend it but most of that seems to be from before 2025 and it is very possible that it has become obsolete since then.
 
Hey everyone! I'm a beginner planning my first Wii portable build. I've been researching a lot and wanted to share my design to get feedback before buying any components.

Concept:
A horizontal form factor Wii portable (~25-27cm wide), similar to a Steam Deck, with the ability to connect to a TV via HDMI while also functioning as a standalone portable.

Planned specs:

Base hardware:

  • Wii RVL-001 trimmed
  • Custom PCB as central hub
  • Wii HDMI internal mod
Display:

  • 7-8" IPS display with HDMI driver board
Controls:

  • Gulikit Hall Effect joysticks (no drift)
  • Hall Effect triggers (L, ZL, R, ZR)
  • A, B, X, Y, D-pad
  • +, -, Home buttons
  • Mapped as Classic Controller
Audio:

  • Dual 4Ω 2-3W 36mm stereo speakers
  • PAM8403 amplifier
  • 3.5mm jack (auto-mutes speakers when connected)
  • Bluetooth module with aptX Low Latency (CSR8675/QCC3034)
Power:

  • 10000mAh LiPo battery
  • BQ25895 power path module (USB-C PD)
  • Automatic temperature-controlled fan
  • 4-LED battery indicator
  • ~4-5 hours portable playtime
Top ports:

  • HDMI output (auto-disables internal screen when connected via HPD detection)
  • USB-C fast charging
  • 3.5mm jack
  • MicroSD slot with dust cover (1TB SanDisk Extreme)
  • Power button
  • Reset button
  • Integrated controls ON/OFF switch (for 4 Wiimote multiplayer)
Enclosure:

  • 3D printed PETG matte black (Fusion 360)
  • Retractable stand on the bottom
  • Ergonomic grips on the sides
  • Personal signature engraved on the back
Integrated sensor bar:

  • IR LEDs on both ends of the front panel
  • Always on, works in both portable and TV mode
  • In TV mode, the portable itself acts as the sensor bar when placed in front of the TV
Main questions:

  1. Is the BQ25895 strong enough to handle Wii power consumption?
  2. Is the Wii HDMI internal mod compatible with a 7-8" IPS driver board display?
  3. Are Hall Effect triggers compatible when mapped as Classic Controller?
  4. Any advice on fitting all components in a 25-27cm horizontal enclosure?
 
Fairly new to hardware modding and I've really just been following tutorials so far so I'm not sure exactly what's possible regarding this.

Recently I've modded my gamecube to accept power via the USB C PD standard. I'm interested in seeing how feasible it would be to power all of my consoles via a GaN Hub. For instance, the UGREEN Nexode 500W GaN charging hub has the ability to output 240W from one of it's ports.

Checking around it appears that the PS5's maximum wattage is 240W... Does that mean it'd be possible to mod a PS5 to accept power through a USB C port via the USB C PD 3.1 spec and therefore power it through the UGreen GaN hub I mentioned above?

Honestly it's been my dream for years now to replace all power bricks in my entertainment center with a singular USB C hub. It didn't seem to be all too possible maybe 5-6 years ago but now? If I'm understanding this right this may be feasible.
 
Hey everyone, idk if this is the right place to post this but
I took apart a water-damaged Switch OLED and have the bare display assembly left over. Instead of throwing it out, I want to see if I can get it running as a small HDMI display without spending a fortune.
I know the usual advice is to just buy a portable monitor because mobile DSI panels are a headache compared to standard eDP screens, but I really want to mess with this as a hardware project. That said, keeping the cost as low as possible is a big priority here.
The rough concept so far is using a TC358870 bridge for HDMI to 4-lane MIPI, plus an AMOLED PMIC like the TPS65632 for the sequenced +4.6V, -4.9V, and 3.3V rails alongside a cheap 1.8V LDO. A Pi Pico or cheap STM32 board would handle the power sequencing, reset, and push the init code.
Before I start buying parts and designing a board, I was hoping to get some input on the cheapest and cleanest way to pull this off:
Has anyone already mapped out the 43-pin connector pinout on the OLED revision, or have diode readings for that connector?
Has anyone dumped the DCS init commands the Switch sends to wake this Samsung panel up?
Is the TC358870 route actually the most budget-friendly way to bridge HDMI to DSI here, or is there a cheaper bridge chip or cheap FPGA approach people use for 720p?
If anyone has alternative ideas or cheaper workarounds to get video onto this specific panel, let me know. Thanks
 
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