Worklog Kolenot's Ashida Worklog

[Stitches]

It's shaping up!

 

[kolenot]

Audio is "working" (got some chopping and sometimes lowering), headphones work fine it's only the speakers (correction it's also on the headset, I guess I had a better connection with the wires before).
I also still have the issue with the volume & percentage thing showing up when I play a game.
Any tips on these?

And wifi is working

Next steps are fixing these and adding the MX chip.

 

[kolenot]

Example of my audio issues, bit crunchy, but more annoying the audio level turning way down (then I move the potentiometer and it's back normal)
That and the ui randomly popping up

 

[Stitches]

I would assume this to be either an i2c/i2s wiring issue, or a settings issue in RVLoader.

How did you daisy chain the SCW/SDW lines and what do you have your AMP control method set to in the RVLoader device settings?

 

[kolenot]

I would assume this to be either an i2c/i2s wiring issue, or a settings issue in RVLoader.

How did you daisy chain the SCW/SDW lines and what do you have your AMP control method set to in the RVLoader device settings?

I connected them from the pms2 to the audio board and from the rvl dd to the audio board (the audio board had 2 sdw and 2 scw vias)
Like the image I made in my first post

30 seems like a nice max volume for speakers.
Didn't play enough with headphones but it might be ok.

 

[Stitches]

That should be an acceptable wiring order. I honestly have no idea why the audio would keep resetting. Wild stab in the dark, maybe something is triggering headphones mode?

 

[kolenot]

Could it be related to the gnd and mc cables?
I was testing it a bit yesterday and I noticed that those cables had tension on them. The quality got better once I was able to release it. (Didn't look at the resetting at that time anymore)
I'll try again later today.
Do you know which cables are responsible for the audio? (Outside of scw and sdw)
And maybe what triggers the headphone mode?

(I'll also try changing the headphone volume if it the volume change still happens, to confirm it's actually the headphone mode getting triggered)

 

[kolenot]

That should be an acceptable wiring order. I honestly have no idea why the audio would keep resetting. Wild stab in the dark, maybe something is triggering headphones mode?

Fixed the sudden switch as far as I notice.
But I still have some small static on the speakers and the left ear of the headset is lower volume than the right.
Also, still that stupid UI thing still pops up

 

[Stitches]

Could it be related to the gnd and mc cables?
I was testing it a bit yesterday and I noticed that those cables had tension on them. The quality got better once I was able to release it. (Didn't look at the resetting at that time anymore)
I'll try again later today.
Do you know which cables are responsible for the audio? (Outside of scw and sdw)
And maybe what triggers the headphone mode?

(I'll also try changing the headphone volume if it the volume change still happens, to confirm it's actually the headphone mode getting triggered)

C, D, WS, and MC are the i2s audio lines. MC (master clock) is especially sensitive to wire length and produces a fair bit of interference to other nearby wires. If possible it should be shielded and kept away from the other lines and away from voltage wires.

 

[kolenot]

C, D, WS, and MC are the i2s audio lines. MC (master clock) is especially sensitive to wire length and produces a fair bit of interference to other nearby wires. If possible it should be shielded and kept away from the other lines and away from voltage wires.

Which jumpers do I have to connect on the u amp 2? Currently I have only j3 connected.
I also noticed that hs and hl have connection for some reason

 

[Stitches]

Which jumpers do I have to connect on the u amp 2? Currently I have only j3 connected.
I also noticed that hs and hl have connection for some reason

You need to connect all 3 system select jumpers if you want the volume HUD to be visible, or no jumpers for no HUD. J3 being shorted is correct for the Ashida's analog volume wheel.

IIRC when the included headphone jack is installed, HS is shorted to HL and inserting a headphone jack into the socket cuts that connection. It's how the amp knows which output mode to use.

 

[kolenot]

Good to know, everything should be fine then. I still notice that the hud sometimes shows up. Don't know if it's normal that it happens when changing the volume (I think it only shows up when changing the volume)

Is it possible for the speakers that they can't hit high notes that well? I get static on the first high notes of dk country (the wii game) everything else on the song sounds fine and the headset also sounds fine.
I've also tried to reflow all the points for the mc gnd points and the headset points (rvl dd, uamp, audio board, speakers, controller board), rerouted couple of the audio wires, replaced the mc and gnd wires (were already shielded but wanted to be sure the wire itself wasn't an issue). But none of it changed anything. When I lower the volume it the static also seems to go away.

But I also got a temporary bug where the sound was lowered when rotating the controllerboard towards me (not muting, just lowering) and the static was still there on the max volume.

I'll add a video so you can see it.

 

[Stitches]

Yeah that hissy screech is what those little speakers sound like when they're maxed out. You might have got a dud set, or the spring legs might not be making good contact

 

[kolenot]

That probably explains it. The plastic parts holding the springing parts broke off the second I tried soldering the legs to the controller board.
Made me wonder if we're even supposed to solder them.
Let me know wether this is the case or not.
(Maybe it's better to solder wires to the non springy parts?)

At least I know now that I can finish the bottom part and connect the mx chip.
I'm also thinking of adding a reset button.

 

[Stitches]

I have seen several people use short bits of wire to properly attach the speakers. It's probably the best way to do it. You can just use magnet wire or kynar wire for it

 

[kolenot]

Still need to fix the speakers, but I wanted to attach the MX chip and see if it works.
Don't worry, I know the battery clip is too big and removed it from the print. I noticed I have space for it in the left handle and will glue to the antenna in that handle.
(I know most people solder to the battery, but I prefer to not needing a soldering iron when replacing a battery)

 

[Stitches]

That's an excellent spot to store the CMOS battery!

 

[kolenot]

That's an excellent spot to store the CMOS battery!

Also notice that I still use the spot of the 3D print for a spare CMOS battery.
I got so many of them now and I don't have to bother to check how long I could use them.

 

[Stitches]

Also notice that I still use the spot of the 3D print for a spare CMOS battery.
I got so many of them now and I don't have to bother to check how long I could use them.

Oh yeah that's what I was referring to. It's a good little pocket. You could put a couple of battery tabs into the print and have that be your easy access CMOS slot instead of using the black one

 

[kolenot]

Oh yeah that's what I was referring to. It's a good little pocket. You could put a couple of battery tabs into the print and have that be your easy access CMOS slot instead of using the black one

That print isn't my design though. But it is idd a great design and the design also has some holes for the wires so you can choose how you want to connect them.
The battery tabs is also a good idea but I already bought the black clip for my GC and it's a bit easier this way than making a new design and ordering the tabs.