Worklog Nintendo Wii Classic Edition

[subierekt]

I was planning on using an analogtoHDMI myself, actually! Hope you don’t mind answering, but how good would you say it’s video quality is and is there any noticeable latency?

The latency figures are actually published on the store page. I used one for my ps2 ultra slim and I’m extremely satisfied for $20

 

[Lemoncake]

Update time: the pieces to built the internal part of my power supply have arrived. I wired up my 5v2a usb C board to my 5v-12v1.2a converter. I’ve confirmed that it is able to give me enough voltage to power my Wii (11.66v), but I’m doubtful that it can supply enough amps. When I hooked everything up, the Wii refused to boot even though everything had been fine when it was running of my bench power supply. I’ve run a few more tests, and confirmed that the step up converter is simply causing the Wii to draw more amps than it can supply. I have one more idea to try, but I wanted to run it by you all first in case it poses a risk of frying my Wii. Would I be able to wire both the PSU and my 5v-12v step up converter to my usb C board at the same time, than wire the converter to the 12v (VIN) wire connected to the audio amp and the sensor bar thing with the positive line and then wire it’s ground to some ground on the mobo?

(This wiring is just for demonstration purposes. I haven’t given anything power yet)

 

[Stitches]

Update time: the pieces to built the internal part of my power supply have arrived. I wired up my 5v2a usb C board to my 5v-12v1.2a converter. I’ve confirmed that it is able to give me enough voltage to power my Wii (11.66v), but I’m doubtful that it can supply enough amps. When I hooked everything up, the Wii refused to boot even though everything had been fine when it was running of my bench power supply. I’ve run a few more tests, and confirmed that the step up converter is simply causing the Wii to draw more amps than it can supply. I have one more idea to try, but I wanted to run it by you all first in case it poses a risk of frying my Wii. Would I be able to wire both the PSU and my 5v-12v step up converter to my usb C board at the same time, than wire the converter to the 12v (VIN) wire connected to the audio amp and the sensor bar thing with the positive line and then wire it’s ground to some ground on the mobo?View attachment 30930
(This wiring is just for demonstration purposes. I haven’t given anything power yet)

I am very confused. Did you try to supply power from the USB-C board, to the 12v step-up, to the PSU+?

 

[Lemoncake]

I am very confused. Did you try to supply power from the USB-C board, to the 12v step-up, to the PSU+?

Originally, yes. But it didn’t provide enough amps for the Wii

EDIT: Now I’m wondering if I can wire the USB C board to the PSU, and then wire the step up converter to the USB C board at the same time and then wire the converter to the 12v spot on the Wii

 

[Stitches]

Originally, yes. But it didn’t provide enough amps for the Wii

EDIT: Now I’m wondering if I can wire the USB C board to the PSU, and then wire the step up converter to the USB C board at the same time and then wire the converter to the 12v spot on the Wii

The step-up should be supplied by the USB-C board, yes. The step-up should only be supplying power to the pre-amp and the sensor bar.

 

[Lemoncake]

I wired everything up that way, but the screen kinda bugged out once it got to the RV Loader menu. I took off the converter, and the Wii still boots as normal, but I’m scared to try that again for fear of breaking my Wii.

EDIT:

So, I tried it one more time, and the weird distortion thing happened again in a different spot and then again as I was booting back on again.

I tried a few more times, but now it keeps crashing whenever I try and boot into a game. My theory is that the converter simply can’t provide enough amps, but does anyone have any other ideas?

 

[Stitches]

The step-up may be overdrawing from the USB-C board, leaving insufficient current for the essential system voltages. For simplicity it might be worth giving up on 12v. You can run the pre-amp on 5v just fine, and there are battery powered sensor bars

 

[Lemoncake]

The step-up may be overdrawing from the USB-C board, leaving insufficient current for the essential system voltages. For simplicity it might be worth giving up on 12v. You can run the pre-amp on 5v just fine, and there are battery powered sensor bars

The pre amp works off 5v? I thought it needed 12v

 

[Stitches]

It accepts a range of input voltages. 5v will run it, it'll just be a bit quieter

 

[CrazyGadget]

I've found that 12V 1A isn't enough juice to stably run a 6 layer, I've always had to go with a 2A / 3A wall wart to get good stability. That said, 5V 2A falls below that power "requirement." Why don't you use a USB-C PD board that triggers at 15V 3A? That's a common profile on PD chargers (more common than 12V, I've found), and more than enough juice to run a 6 layer.

 

[Lemoncake]

I've found that 12V 1A isn't enough juice to stably run a 6 layer, I've always had to go with a 2A / 3A wall wart to get good stability. That said, 5V 2A falls below that power "requirement." Why don't you use a USB-C PD board that triggers at 15V 3A? That's a common profile on PD chargers (more common than 12V, I've found), and more than enough juice to run a 6 layer.

Yeah, I just confirmed with my setup that 5v 2a is not enough. If I were to plug a 12v USB C board into a PD cable/brick that gives more power than that, will it burn out my board or will the USB C board only take what it needs?

 

[Stitches]

Yeah, I just confirmed with my setup that 5v 2a is not enough. If I were to plug a 12v USB C board into a PD cable/brick that gives more power than that, will it burn out my board or will the USB C board only take what it needs?

If the board is built properly it will only draw its maximum rated current for any given voltage, which for your USB-C board is 1.5A at 12v IIRC

 

[Lemoncake]

My analog2HDMI has arrived!

This thing has a ton of video configuration options: Analog, SPDIF, VGA and YPbPr (I don’t even know what all of those mean ). Are there any recommendations as to which I should use?

EDIT: I just learned that SPDIF is an audio signal. I should’ve done my research before posting… :/

 

[Stitches]

The Wii has no built in SPIDF output, you have use the analog audio option. VGA will have mildly better fine detail quality than YPbPr, so I'd go for VGA as the video input

 

[Lemoncake]

I've found that 12V 1A isn't enough juice to stably run a 6 layer, I've always had to go with a 2A / 3A wall wart to get good stability. That said, 5V 2A falls below that power "requirement." Why don't you use a USB-C PD board that triggers at 15V 3A? That's a common profile on PD chargers (more common than 12V, I've found), and more than enough juice to run a 6 layer.

15v 3a into the PSU Plus won’t cook it?

 

[Stitches]

15v 3a into the PSU Plus won’t cook it?

The PSU+ has a max input voltage of 18v. 15v into the PSU+ is fine, but don't put 15v into the Wii's 12v line

 

[Lemoncake]

Alright, this might be a stupid question and is probably way more complicated than I’m assuming it is, but would it be possible to convert the PMS PD 2 into a PD board for this project (maybe keeping the USB MUX switching as well?). I know the PMS PD has a 3.3v output, but everything else is a mystery to me. Thee only reason I ask is that I don’t know how much I really trust my $7 board from Amazon to not give out in the future…

EDIT: So, I actually broke both of my Amazon PD boards so that's out the window anyway. After reading some more about the PMS PD, I learned that it supports charging up to 15v 3a, which is exactly what CrazyGadget said I should use. As long as that's the pre-configured value that line is given when it is shipped out, would I just be able to wire up the CHARGE pad on the PMS PD to VIN on the PSU Plus and GND to GND to get it to provide me the correct voltage to power the Wii once plugged in? (I'd also have to figure out the power button situation)

 

[Stitches]

Alright, this might be a stupid question and is probably way more complicated than I’m assuming it is, but would it be possible to convert the PMS PD 2 into a PD board for this project (maybe keeping the USB MUX switching as well?). I know the PMS PD has a 3.3v output, but everything else is a mystery to me. Thee only reason I ask is that I don’t know how much I really trust my $7 board from Amazon to not give out in the future…

EDIT: So, I actually broke both of my Amazon PD boards so that's out the window anyway. After reading some more about the PMS PD, I learned that it supports charging up to 15v 3a, which is exactly what CrazyGadget said I should use. As long as that's the pre-configured value that line is given when it is shipped out, would I just be able to wire up the CHARGE pad on the PMS PD to VIN on the PSU Plus and GND to GND to get it to provide me the correct voltage to power the Wii once plugged in? (I'd also have to figure out the power button situation)

That I can't help you with, I don't know the default behaviour. What I do know is that it really would be simpler to use a cheap 12v3A wall wart from Amazon like the other Wii Micro type builds. The 2.1mm DC barrel sockets that they plug into are also really easy to find and use, especially if you get the screw shaft ones.

 

[Lemoncake]

Okay, so my USB C board has arrived (15v per CrazyGadget's recommendation). Everything is going fine, but I have a question concerning the audio amp. I know I'm not supposed to throw 15v into the pre-amp itself, but I'm not at all getting satisfactory results out of running the pre-amp of a lower voltage as you suggested. Instead of being quieter, audio quality is noticeable worse than when running at 12v (for reference I had it running off of 5v). Are there any workarounds to potentially fix this? For example, if I have two different 5v lines going into the pre-amp, would their voltages stack and deliver 10v?

 

[Stitches]

Okay, so my USB C board has arrived (15v per CrazyGadget's recommendation). Everything is going fine, but I have a question concerning the audio amp. I know I'm not supposed to throw 15v into the pre-amp itself, but I'm not at all getting satisfactory results out of running the pre-amp of a lower voltage as you suggested. Instead of being quieter, audio quality is noticeable worse than when running at 12v (for reference I had it running off of 5v). Are there any workarounds to potentially fix this? For example, if I have two different 5v lines going into the pre-amp, would their voltages stack and deliver 10v?

You can't really run regulators in series like that, no. You could try feeding the pre-amp 15v and see if it doesn't explode, but your best bet would probably be either: remove the pre-amp and bridge the unamplified audio input signal to the output pads, or get a lightweight 12v stepdown regulator to lower the 15v input. IIRC the CM3 component on the Wii is a form of 12v regulator that could be repurposed for this, but the trim line for the AV port basically runs up against it so you may have necked it during trimming, and I don't know whether it requires any management from the removed voltage monitoring ICs.