Question NAND relocation questions.

[ScrambledFrequency]

The NAND relocation is becoming more and more popular, and I'd like to try it at some point.
However, I have two questions.
Can I move the NAND before trimming the Wii?
There are some surface mount components. Are they necessary?
If so, where do I get them?

 

[Gman]

Yes you can remove it before trimming. I would recommend doing this so you can confirm the relocation working before trimming as it can be tricky to get each connection solid. The required components you should relocate are two .1uF capacitors that are on each voltage supply on both sides of the nand. You can reuse these capacitors taken from the wii.

 

[ScrambledFrequency]

Thanks!
One other question, what is the area labeled R1 for?

 

[Gman]

Its for a resistor that is removed if you trim all the way to omega trim. If you are not doing omega trim then don't do anything to it.

 

[ScrambledFrequency]

Sorry if this is considered a bump, but it's my thread so it's probably okay.
Anyways, it's kind of a dumb question, but where is that resistor located?
I've seen some omegas that use it and some that don't, and I don't want to break a wii because I didn't use it when I should've.

 

[CrazyGadget]

R71, between the 3v3 cap and the GPU

 

[ScrambledFrequency]

Thanks!

 

[ScrambledFrequency]

Also, looking at this ave relocation, I see a large capacitor relocated.

not the orange one, btw, the one next to the ave, which is connected to the black wire.
Where is it on the wii mobo, and is it necessary?
Sorry if I am asking dumb questions, I just want to be on the safe side.

 

[CrazyGadget]

Before there was the AVE Relocation Flex, the way to relocate the AVE was to trim it / the supporting components off of a donor Wii. All the wires coming off the daughter board are all just restoring connections to where those traces would normally go to. I would not suggest using the daughter board method, as the AVE relocation flex is cheap, and a heck of a lot easier to install, especially if you get it pre-populated. The site has some good images for getting it installed as well.

 

[ScrambledFrequency]

Ah, Ok. I notice there is something called AVE-HDMI on their website. Would that be a good replacement for the AVE?

 

[CrazyGadget]

Yes, if you only want HDMI output, you can just use the AVE-HDMI and cut out the AVE completely. With the new flex PCB design, it should be just as easy of an install as the AVE flex, but I have not tried one myself yet.

 

[Stitches]

Ah, Ok. I notice there is something called AVE-HDMI on their website. Would that be a good replacement for the AVE?

Something to remember is that the stock AVE is responsible for analog audio output, so you will need a U-Amp if you want to use the AVE-HDMI for video output

 

[ScrambledFrequency]

Something to remember is that the stock AVE is responsible for analog audio output, so you will need a U-Amp if you want to use the AVE-HDMI for video output

Yep, I got it!
Also, would HDMI be better than VGA?

 

[Stitches]

Yep, I got it!
Also, would HDMI be better than VGA?

That really depends on the screen and the signal integrity of the wires/FFC. HDMI being digital to digital would under ideal conditions technically have superior quality, but in practice the difference is quite small and you'd have to look at both side by side with a magnifier to really tell a difference. Really there's a bigger difference between yPbPr and VGA than between HDMI and VGA at this scale.

 

[ScrambledFrequency]

Ok, so they're about the same.

 

[Stitches]

Ok, so they're about the same.

Pretty much