Worklog RIIIIIP

[The_Smeags]

gman's 3D printed gba cases have been making an appearance throughout the forums, decided to get a couple of them.
as some of you may know, i softmodded a black wii (NO GC PORTS) i also tried disabling the wifi, however, no luck with that. hopefully cheese/Aurelio get back to me on that stuff as i pm'd the two of them about it. for the mean time im waiting for the case(s). afterwards im going to be ordering the regulators and soon after that the batteries and screen. i already have a 3ds slider converter board that i bought a while back and a controller to use, should have an amp somewhere that i can throw into this project. if i can't get this to work ill have no choice, but to attempt to relocate the extra things on the board..would rather not, but in the end it might not be a bad thing. i'd like to be able to browse through the main menu for virtual channels that the wii can't properly emulate. ie mario party 2 and paper mario (i think pausing takes too long or something that makes the game really annoying)

 

[The_Smeags]

trimmed the heatsink down to around 1cm as required to fit inside my case.
can someone tell me the best method for removing the u10 component? i tried heating up the legs and lifting the thing with some tweezers. in the process i broke it..i have another wii to mod, just hoping to find some advice before i attempt it again, the next method i was going forward with was to simply cut around it and trim the board section until i got close to the u10 and then rewire it to the pins.

 

[cheese]

Nice heatsink, just remember the fan
Also, U9 and U10 are the same chip, so you can use U9 in place of U10. (Bad way of doing it) I put on so much solder that it went over the entire chip and heated all the legs and it came off, then dug it out of the ball of solder. If you heat the pads long enough it will come off with a hot air gun or something, just remember, the side with 3 pins will take MUCH longer to heat than the other side, as all those pins are connected to the ground plain (which acts like a big heatsink).

 

[The_Smeags]

Nice heatsink, just remember the fan
Also, U9 and U10 are the same chip, so you can use U9 in place of U10. (Bad way of doing it) I put on so much solder that it went over the entire chip and heated all the legs and it came off, then dug it out of the ball of solder. If you heat the pads long enough it will come off with a hot air gun or something, just remember, the side with 3 pins will take MUCH longer to heat than the other side, as all those pins are connected to the ground plain (which acts like a big heatsink).

i figured they were the same thing, i took u9 off successfully, but the component fell off my desk and i lost it anyways i have no choice, but to start on a different wii. now that i learned how to get it softmodded without error idont mind doing that. i might give that method a try as i have plenty of wick to remove the excess solder.

 

[The_Smeags]

i had another concern, when it came to wiring up the gc controller, how does the dual tact mod work? i can't find any info on it besides a comment ashen posted stating he used two tacts and a 10k resistor. can someone show me a setup?

 

[Aurelio]

Follow these schematics. The blue dot must be connected to the digital trigger input, while the green one goes to the analog trigger.
Use a soft tact switch as the analog trigger and a hard one for the digital trigger.

 

[Nick]

Can someone tell me the best method for removing the u10 component?View attachment 705

Best and easiest way is a heat gun, I set it at 400-430 degrees and move the gun around rather than keeping it in one spot. Thn remove with tweezers. Pretty quick process that way

 

[Luke]

can someone tell me the best method for removing the u10 component?View attachment 705

Can't tell you the best way, but my method involved cutting off the part of board that it was on to a really small piece, and then sanding from the bottom with a dremel until it was so thin that I could break the chip off. Sketchy, I know, but it worked like a charm. I don't have a heat gun; seems like that's the way to go if you have access to one.

 

[The_Smeags]

thanks a ton, aurelio, saved the schematic.

Best and easiest way is a heat gun, I set it at 400-430 degrees and move the gun around rather than keeping it in one spot. Thn remove with tweezers. Pretty quick process that way

dont have one so ill look into getting one. much rather be safe then sorry.

Can't tell you the best way, but my method involved cutting off the part of board that it was on to a really small piece, and then sanding from the bottom with a dremel until it was so thin that I could break the chip off. Sketchy, I know, but it worked like a charm. I don't have a heat gun; seems like that's the way to go if you have access to one.

thats exactly what i was thinking of doing if i was to run out of options.

 

[Nick]

dont have one so ill look into getting one. much rather be safe then sorry.

This is the one I have. It has a soldering iron and a heat gun, may not be the best out there but I've never had any issues. It works great for me and is decent priced.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B387H58/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[The_Smeags]

This is the one I have. It has a soldering iron and a heat gun, may not be the best out there but I've never had any issues. It works great for me and is decent priced.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B387H58/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

might move forward with that, thanks for the link.

 

[The_Smeags]

Best and easiest way is a heat gun, I set it at 400-430 degrees and move the gun around rather than keeping it in one spot. Thn remove with tweezers. Pretty quick process that way

i ended up getting one that ran around 700 degrees F, would that be too hot? i could be careful with distance.

 

[Nick]

i ended up getting one that ran around 700 degrees F, would that be too hot? i could be careful with distance.

Mine doesn't go that high so I don't know what that temperature would do to a board or components. I probably wouldn't use that high of a temperature, especially since you don't need to, but I assume you can set what temperature the gun runs at so you should be good.

 

[The_Smeags]

Mine doesn't go that high so I don't know what that temperature would do to a board or components. I probably wouldn't use that high of a temperature, especially since you don't need to, but I assume you can set what temperature the gun runs at so you should be good.

i think it only has two temp settings...one being even higher than that, it was the only one they had at the local walmart, but if it is then ill probably return it and order another online.

 

[Nick]

I would probably return it and buy one that you can set the temperature, but that's just me. I'm not 100% sure if it would mess things up on your motherboard or not though, someone else would have to weigh in on that. You could always try it out and see, but you never know why will happen for sure could end up having to buy another board

 

[cheese]

I have one that has 700 or 1000, I set it on 700 and just move the gun constantly so that I don't burn the board.

 

[Nick]

I have one that has 700 or 1000, I set it on 700 and just move the gun constantly so that I don't burn the board.

How fast do components come off with that much heat?? Because with upper 400's it's relatively quick.

 

[stuckpixel]

How fast do components come off with that much heat?? Because with upper 400's it's relatively quick.

You're getting Celsius and Fahrenheit mixed up... 700 °F is 371.111 °C

 

[Nick]

Oh. I just go by the number on my unit honestly idk if it's in C or F

 

[stuckpixel]

Oh. I just go by the number on my unit honestly idk if it's in C or F

Solder melts higher than 400 °F, iirc, or if it is melted, it's super sluggish at that temp and will be not optimal for taking things off of a board with...