Power Issues.

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Background
Prior to my current issue, I was completing the 16th step of the guide. After wiring up the audio, my GBoy took a half second longer to boot and the controller inputs no longer worked. I decided it would be best to do a little troubleshooting before I went to the forums. Unfortunately, I screwed up somewhere. A new issue arose, I was experiencing the same things as this forum post, LCD back-light was on but nothing was being displayed. After reading through that forum, I decided I had the same issue and moved on to another Wii. Before I was going to wire up my backup Wii, I wanted to redo some of the wiring.

Current Issue
After unsoldering all the wires and then resoldering the battery clips, USB-C PCB, RGB LED, and the LCD Power to the RVL-PMS, nothing happens when I try and turn on the GBoy. What is odd is that I thought I remember testing the Fan wiring and hearing the fan spin, so it makes me believe that this current power issue arose during the LED and LCD wiring but my memory could be wrong.

I have checked for continuity on all the connections, all passed. I have re-removed the LED and LCD power wiring but nothing changed. If I plug in the GBoy into a PC, the files appear and have no problems reading or writing to the drive.

Here are the voltages I measured when the GBoy was plugged in to a PD charger with 2 18650 batteries inserted into the clips.

PMS
BTN - 3.76v
vSYS - 3.76v
SDA - 3.76v
SCL - 3.63v
5v - 0.0v
3v3 - 0.0v

USB-C
BTN - 3.76v
vSYS - 3.76v
SDA - 3.76v
SCL - 3.63v
5v - 0.0v

My Wiring
IMG_20200914_005135.jpg

IMG_20200914_222858.jpg
IMG_20200914_222925.jpg
 
Last edited:

Gman

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Screen not turning on just means there is no video signal from the wii, probably doesnt have to do with the screen most likely. Could you provide pictures of your wiring?
 
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Well, I can't supply images of my wiring to the Wii because I have removed everything when I assumed it was the Wii that was the problem.

My current problem revolves around the fan, LED, and LCD power not working.

(Sorry for the half finished initial post, I accidentally hit a keyboard shortcut to create the thread and did not know how to remove/hide/private my post before I finished.)
 

Gman

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When you press the button, does the voltage on it go to around 0v?
 
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The voltage on the BTN pads drop to 0v when the power button is pressed (for 2 seconds).

I also forgot to mention what when I have the charger and batteries plugged in, I measure 0v on the CHRG pads.
 

Gman

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Ok I suspect it could be wiring with the usbc board or something wrong with that board. You could remove the 5v, vsys, sda, scl, and chrg wires. Only keeping btn and ground to try and turn on the pms.
 
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After completing the requested steps (removing 5v, vsys, sda, scl, and chrg) and pressing the power button. . .

Nothing happens.
 

Noah

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Did you measure the output voltage on the PMS? Make sure you hold the button for a couple of seconds, sometimes it needs to be longer than you think.

Take a picture of the current state of the board and don't change anything after so we can see what's going on. Keep in mind that if GND is not soldered to the USB-C board the power button won't work, so you'll need to short the BTN pad to GND as Gman said.
 
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The voltage on the BTN pads drop to 0v when the power button is pressed (for 2 seconds).
I measured this voltage with both probes on the PMS board. I have tried holding the button for longer, still nothing.

Here are pictures of the current state of the boards.
IMG_20200915_232410.jpg

IMG_20200915_232405.jpg

IMG_20200915_232430.jpg

IMG_20200915_232434.jpg
 

Gman

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I would recommend completely removing all the unnecessary wires (not just on one end). You need to restore the pms to most basic condition to test it. With wires hanging loose, flux residues, etc, it leaves doubt. Either the pms is broken or it is wiring. But that you get voltage on vsys tells me the pms is working to some degree and isnt fried.
 
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I tested after removing the unnecessary wires and still the same result. (Fan does not turn on.)
- BTN still drops to 0v when the power button is pressed and held.
- Continuity has been verified for GRD and BTN between the USB-C and PMS board

IMG_20200916_203941.jpg
IMG_20200916_203946.jpg

IMG_20200916_203953.jpg
IMG_20200916_203959.jpg


IMG_20200916_204021.jpg
IMG_20200916_204024.jpg

IMG_20200916_204034.jpg
IMG_20200916_204040.jpg
 

Gman

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Can you elaborate more on the condition that led up to this? Did you have it successfully powering wii and displaying video at once point?
 
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I was in the process of finishing Step 16 of the GBoy Assembly Guide, as I had successfully completed every step up to that point. When I went to test my work after completing Step 16, I ran into an odd issue. The Wii would take a half second longer to boot and the controller inputs would not register. I decided to troubleshoot the issue before going to the forums and found out that if I disconnected the 3.3v wire between the Audio Amp and the Controller PCB, the Wii would boot at its regular speed (I know "regular speed" is subjective/awkward wording) and my controller would work again. I believe I then tried removing the 1.8v wire from the audio amp while reattaching the 3.3v to see what would happen, it ended up being the same result as when I removed the 3.3v wire. I then removed the 1.8v and the 3.3v from the audio amp. When I went to turn it on, there was no video displayed but the LCD had a backlight.

I did some continuity testing between the different video wires and all of them were good.I also read a thread where a guy had a similar no video issue where they concluded the Wii he was bad. I had a backup Wii in case I messed up something, so I just concluded I had broken the Wii. I decided I wanted to clean up the wiring before I inserted my new Wii, which leads us to where I am now.

Video Proof of GBoy Working Prior to Attempting Audio
Link 1
Link 2
 

Gman

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Ok there's not much to go off of other than that "it isnt working". The PMS is stripped down to bare minimum to turn on. There is VSYS voltage on PMS which tells me it isnt burned. You could measure resistance from each of the pms outputs (while battery is disconnected) to ground to see if something is shorted that would prevent it from powering on.
 

Gman

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PMS doesnt just stop working for no reason, it is pretty easy to short it while you are working on it if the battery is in. Or a wire touches something it shouldnt.
 
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I'm a little busy tonight with school work, I'll report back with the resistances tomorrow.

PMS doesnt just stop working for no reason, it is pretty easy to short it while you are working on it if the battery is in. Or a wire touches something it shouldnt.
I expected I did something that screwed it up. I it also very likely that I left a battery in while troubleshooting the controller issue.
(Mentally shat myself when I had the issue --> Forgot to unplug the battery)

Thanks for your help so far.
 
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Which probe should be on the GRND pads and which should be on the voltage pads? I am getting different measurements when switching the probes around.
 
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