Question u10 problems

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May 2, 2020
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I have trimmed my wii at this point and done all of my custom regulators. Before trimming the Wii would boot but required the ground of the u10 to be connected to another ground because apparently the u5 location is not connected to ground. I found this out by touching a screw driver to the 3.3v side of the u10 and the Wii would boot. Now after my trim the grounded u10 does not work and I have to touch a screw driver to the positive side of the u10 in order for the system to boot. Any ideas on how to fix this issue so the u10 can work properly on its own?
 
It sounds like a poor connection to the 3.3v pad. Touching a screwdriver to the 3.3v doesn't "ground" it unless the screwdriver itself is grounded and grounding 3.3v would only cause a short which would stop the system from functioning correctly.

Please post pictures of your u10 relocation.
 
image1.jpeg
image0.jpeg
 
Sounds like you need to resolder the U10. It may also just be broken (U10), when you're shorting the 3.3v and output pads, that's essentially doing what the U10 is supposed to do in the system normally. Do a quick check to make sure that ground is on the blob on the bottom.
 
after desoldering the u10 i can see that the 3.3v pad is basically burned off. could this affect the performance of the u10? and if it does what can I do about the pad being burnt?
image0 (1).jpeg
 
The 3.3v pad is still intact, it's the output pin that got burned off, which isn't an issue. I'd try soldering it back on and see if you can measure 3.3v out of the output leg.
 
i replaced my u10 with the u9 just to make sure the chip wasnt keeping the system from booting. I checked and 3.3 is coming from the output. The interesting thing is the system wont start on its on, but when I check the voltage, by touching my probes to the 3.3 output and the ground of the u10 the system will start. I have tested this multiple times and it always starts when I check the voltage. I don't understand why this is happening.
 
i had also read somewhere that before trimming and relocation the u10 uses a pullup resistor in its original location. Could it be possible a pullup resistor is also required after trimming and relocation for the u10 to function properly?
 
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