New blue g-boy REV4U

Hello all!Doing a lot of test with my driver board,and this thing is actually not dead!It just got a weird issue:it only boot up when I short a connection between the F+ and the 5v line,but,at least,it works.It looks like a bad solution,but this thing actually work!
(just will wait for an answer of a professional for solder the 2 pads between ,I don't want to kill my pms)

EDIT:I think,with my little experience of young portablizer,I just do a stupid thing with the 5v line like soldering with the BATTERIES inside of the shell(yeah,I know it's stupid)and it's why the voltage was insuficient.
 

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That is very strange. The Fan headers have their own customisable voltage to control fan behaviour and shouldn't really be shorted to the 5v rail.

Can you provide a clear photo os your PMS wiring?
 
Sure.Here it is.
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Good heavens man......................... you need to take the batteries out and shorten those lengths of exposed wire. No wonder things keep dying, you have a nightmare of voltage shorts just sitting waiting for the case to close and press one of them into a neighbour, and some of them are already touching!

When you solder a wire to a pad, there mustn't be any exposed wire sticking out from the solder joint. Using flux will help with preventing those blobby joints, but not rosin based flux. MG 8341 is highly recommended, and pretty much any no-clean flux paste by Kester works too.
 
Oookk,I take the advice and I'm buying by this step some MG8341 flux.I will desold all my wires this afternoon and shorting them.
I understand better now why it does this kind of problem :XD: .Thank you for the quick reply,since now,I promise, I will only solder my electronics for Wii with that.
(And for the batterie,luckily,I did that just 3 times by forgoten them in my case and they are still working,I'm not so crazy)
 
Excellent. Remember to clean any blackened flux off the boards with isopropyl alcohol and a soft bristled toothbrush afterwards. The "no-clean" title only refers to the substance not causing erosion or rusting if left on a PCB, it still needs to be cleaned off if it goes dark from being burnt or polluted. The dark bits can cause mini-shorts that will mess with the system

Keeping your soldering iron's tip clean will also help keep your joints tidy. A basic soldering sponge or a bit of brass wool will do wonders
 
So, after rewireing all my pms's wires, I still got the same problem.My heatsink is outputing the good power (something like 3-5v) but not my 5v line.Here some pictures.
Edit: I use isopropolyc alcohol for clean the board,a little bit of flux and clean my iron for solder all these wires.
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Well done with the cleanup! That's much better, and safer. With that done we can rule out a short between PMS pads, but the 5V rail behaviour is still strange. I'm not sure how to troubleshoot that, but if shorting 5v to the fan pad works then I suppose that's what you might have to do to avoid buying another PMS
 
Yeah, I think I will keep this solution for my 5v.Next step is to wire the wii to the IPS screen,just need to wait for some 38 awg green and red wires.
 
Hey all,since a long time I didn't post here.I'm still working and today I just receive the old g-boy screen (you know the 240p)because I was getting too much troubleshouting/weird things/hard solder with the other one.So,for test my Wii I wired up composite and...Well,the screen recognize there is something,which is good,but after,I got a black,I don't know why and nothing boot.Any idea of the problem(any help will be grandly appreciate)

Here is my setup:
 

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Hey all!
Since last time, I trimmed another Wii and this one is working,but,I'm getting a problem with my pms 3.I can not read sd card on m'y computer directly from the pms,I'm not sure if it charge batteries and the d- and d+ are not working.
I also cleaned everything.
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Edit:This morning, I resolder some wires and this kind of things,and now,my Wii is not showing anything on my screen:'(
I pass 1 hour to done soldering for almost each wires and it change nothing.
Any help will be very kind.
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More global pictures:

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Heyo all,since too much Time since the last update and that's not good,so today,I get hours of work on it,trimm a new wii aaaaand
It works!
Well I say it works but the controller isn't working,but at least,I've got image and pms pd 3 is working prooerly like the pms 2.
Is anybody got an idea of what is the problem with my controller please?
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I check,I don't have any short on the gcd)
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Hope I will find the problem,have a good day all :)

EDIT:by the way,I'm properly getting 3.3v on the pcb
 
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Hey guys,with a lot of help from @Xenii,I can now have an (almost) fonctionnal controller.Yeah almost because my joystick were not good :\,so,they aren't functionnal.I buy new joysticks which will arrive soon.I also perform a bluetooth relocation,but still need to test it.
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See you soon for the next update :)
 
Hey all, I change a missing resistor on m'y gc2+ but still nothing,the controller isn't working:'(,this thing is getting me crazy.
I wondered is somebody is enough kind to do it for me,I explain:I spend too much and pass a lot of money in this project,and know,I'm really close of my goal,but I need to focus me on m'y wiirtop,so,can some ody contact me if they can repair this for me,I will try to pay him(of course).I know it's not very good,but I'm at thé bottom of the hole.
Hope somebody will accept this and have a good day!

Edit:By the way,I'm from Europa
 
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I'd offer, but I'm on the wrong side of the world
 
Heyo guys,since way too much has passed since the last update(5 months lol),so here it is.Because this project is everytime in stand by for a reason,I decided to eradicate all the problems from the origin,and the first one was the case.
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You can't really see from here,but there are little scraps and solder residues everywhere,so I decide to print a new one.It's a good test for my 3d printer and I think I prefer it like this because now,the case looks closer to the original g-boy kit.;)
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It now looks pretty decent >:),even if it's not perfect ('cause of my dumbass who sand some parts:facepalm:) .I also change the version of the case to the one of @SimplyStevii,which is basically better than the old,now,I have wheels for the volume and screen intensity,which is good:).

I get out my old wiring,and I think it's time for a new one:awesome:
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I even order a new gc2+ for delete all my problems with the controls and resolder them on a new pcb card,hoppefully,I still have some:blush:
So this time,my motivation is back again and,I think you understand it,but the new primary word for now is to get something CLEAN!

But,because I'm still not the cryspiest crips of the package,I get myself able to lose 4 on 4 led diffuser:facepalm:(what a morron I am lol),so I ended up by cutting a led in half and superglued it on the case,and believe it or not,it looks pretty goodB|,even if it's a little bit a garbage solution.
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But,because all of this was too beautiful to be real,I ended up by melting a part of my front case with my iron solder while dessoledering a port on the screen,and now,the case can't close:blush:,and I'm out of filament so I will need to wait a little bit,but it's okay,this things happen(I think?:rothink:)
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And guess that's all for this time,See ya;)

PS:For those who are wondering what the fuck I am doing,it's because this project is basically a compilation of my solder learning,from the beggining to the end,so I prefer to re-do it from (almost)nothing and get something who is decently working>:D rather than have something with too much troubleshooting but made fast.:devilish:
 
Hey guys,what's up since the time lol(yes I'm not dead).Got some advances and backwards like everytime:awesome:.I'll pass on detailsbut basically,I gave a brand new look to the old g-boy,got a new case now @SimplyStevii's design),new joysticks and new GC+ but still the same issue:the controller isn't working:|.
I checked the continuity and it seems ok,even add an extra wire for the data in case of,done some cleaning,testing and troubleshooting but nothing change.

I also had something weird,it looks like the GCD on the Wii is not having power,probably the issue?
Looking forwards for help :)
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EDIT: After a new check,3.3V is working fine
 
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