Solved Looking to build an ashida and have a few questions before I start buying parts

[hlk2010]

• Will the ashida case be able to fit the bluetooth module, the wifi module, and RTC module and how should I mount them
• Should I use the U-Amp 2 or the RVL-Amp
• In the 3 video from Dubesinhower he states that while playing a gamecube game the screen stretches because it doesn't change to 4:3 aspect ratio, has this been fixed.
• Should I use the RVL-PMS light or RVL-PMS 2
• For the case I was planning to get it done by pcbway and would like it transparent, what settings for the 3d printing should i use
• Where should I get a gamecube controller and the second z button and should I harvest the potentiometer from the controller or by a pair from the link in the BOM
• Where should i get the wire necessary for building the ashida
• (edit) what micro sd to usb should I use

Thank you for your help in advance

 

[vest]

1. Yes the ashida can fit all three. There are 3d printable mounts that @Senor Avocado made for the MX chip as well some wifi antenna brackets. You can find those here. Mounting these modules isn’t a standardized thing, you can always just mount them on an any empty spot in the ashida with some kapton tape.
2. Either are compatible with the ashida(U-amp is the more flexible board)
3. I believe aspect ratios must be set manually on a game by game basis? I’m not sure about this though so someone else may be able to help you with this
4. This is your choice. The pms 2 is the more capable board, offering efficient 1v8 voltage regulation(better than the wii LDO saving 10-15 mins battery life) and battery life estimation. However it is also more expensive than the pms lite
5. From what I’ve seen, if you want transparency, use pcbway’s SLA clear resin option(UTR-8100). But keep in mind, resin prints can be very fragile
6. For buttons you could get a classic controller, a set of buttons, and an extra z button, or you could get a gamecube controller plus an extra z button(You can get these from ebay). I would recommend going with the classic controller, they are really cheap and use the same components as the gc controller. I would harvest the potentiometers from the controller you buy.
7. I got my wire from amazon. 22 awg stranded wire for high voltages, 30 awg wrapping wire for in between things, and 34 awg magnet wire for wii vias and data. Make sure to get multiple colors of each to make the build process easier
8. You should not need a micro sd to usb if you are using the pms pd 3 from 4layer tech. Any sd card formatted to fat32 should work

Hopefully these answer your questions!

 

[hlk2010]

1. Yes the ashida can fit all three. There are 3d printable mounts that @Senor Avocado made for the MX chip as well some wifi antenna brackets. You can find those here. Mounting these modules isn’t a standardized thing, you can always just mount them on an any empty spot in the ashida with some kapton tape.
2. Either are compatible with the ashida(U-amp is the more flexible board)
3. I believe aspect ratios must be set manually on a game by game basis? I’m not sure about this though so someone else may be able to help you with this
4. This is your choice. The pms 2 is the more capable board, offering efficient 1v8 voltage regulation(better than the wii LDO saving 10-15 mins battery life) and battery life estimation. However it is also more expensive than the pms lite
5. From what I’ve seen, if you want transparency, use pcbway’s SLA clear resin option(UTR-8100). But keep in mind, resin prints can be very fragile
6. For buttons you could get a classic controller, a set of buttons, and an extra z button, or you could get a gamecube controller plus an extra z button(You can get these from ebay). I would recommend going with the classic controller, they are really cheap and use the same components as the gc controller. I would harvest the potentiometers from the controller you buy.
7. I got my wire from amazon. 22 awg stranded wire for high voltages, 30 awg wrapping wire for in between things, and 34 awg magnet wire for wii vias and data. Make sure to get multiple colors of each to make the build process easier
8. You should not need a micro sd to usb if you are using the pms pd 3 from 4layer tech. Any sd card formatted to fat32 should work

Hopefully these answer your questions!

It does, thank you.

 

[crashshred]

• Will the ashida case be able to fit the bluetooth module, the wifi module, and RTC module and how should I mount them
• Should I use the U-Amp 2 or the RVL-Amp Doodle Baseball
• In the 3 video from Dubesinhower he states that while playing a gamecube game the screen stretches because it doesn't change to 4:3 aspect ratio, has this been fixed.
• Should I use the RVL-PMS light or RVL-PMS 2
• For the case I was planning to get it done by pcbway and would like it transparent, what settings for the 3d printing should i use
• Where should I get a gamecube controller and the second z button and should I harvest the potentiometer from the controller or by a pair from the link in the BOM
• Where should i get the wire necessary for building the ashida
• (edit) what micro sd to usb should I use

Thank you for your help in advance

Yes, the Ashida can fit all three modules. You can mount them using the 3D-printed MX/WiFi brackets or simply secure them with Kapton tape.