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Unfortunately no. I haven't done any testing myself, I just remember that Madmorda used Anker powerbank boards in some of her old projects and they had uninterrupted charge and play with no modifications. In theory with modern standards any mid grade or better Anker bank *should* be sufficient...

There are many powerbanks that can supply enough current to run the system, the tricky part is finding one that doesn't drop out for a millisecond when a charge cable is plugged in. IIRC Anker makes suitable ones. Then you need your regulators. The tried and true ones are Texas Instruments...

In that case they might indeed be legitimate. Only way to find out is to charge and use them

It's worth mentioning that ASA supports are much easier to remove than PLA or PETG supports

Efest's official website does not list a 4000mAh 18650 cell and I can only find a couple of mentions of 4000mAh cells on vendor sites, so I'm going to go with probably fake. Genuine Efest cells have an authenticity sticker on them with a scratch off panel revealing a unique ID string. Do yours...

Oh neat, I didn't know someone made one of those

What conversion boards do you mean? The only conversions for the Vita that I know of are OLED screen upgrades

You can take the risk. Many people here have had the Ashida shell printed by JLC and PCBWay in spite of the thin walls without major issue. You might find that your shell is a little bit warped from getting warm during shipping, but it's quite rare for it to be significant enough to prevent...

This thread is 4 years old and dead as Abraham Licoln. Please don't necrobump old threads like this if you don't have something valuable to add

It is possible that the charging circuit on the 3DS motherboard itself has died. If that is the case, the only solution is to replace the motherboard or buy an entire new unit and migrate your data. There is also the chance that the motherboard's battery tabs are just broken, which you'd have...

Very nice!

Neither, the RVL DD doesn't use any commercial video standard. It takes the raw digital output straight from the Wii's GPU and encodes it for the attached LCD screen directly. It does this in parallel with the AVE (if it's still onboard), and both will output their respective video at the same...

Your wires are not soldered correctly and are too thin to carry enough current to run the system. You should be using 20AWG or 22AWG stranded wire for primary voltage supply

Part of the issue is your filament is wet as fuck

Glad to hear it! Wiis sometimes just don't survive the trimming process even if you do everything right. We still don't know why this is

Almost certainly not

Yeah you'd have to use 5v from the PMS

Note to self: buy some of that filament

The wiring in the second photo is never going to work. Soldering to those vias is very precise, you need 30AWG wire or smaller (32 to 38AWG magnet wire is recommended), and liberal flux use for clean joints is a must. As for why it isn't working, USB data wires are very prone to interference...