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Seeing video output is really the only way to know if a Wii is actually booting. The LED on the RVL-PMS works solely as an indicator as to whether the PMS is turned on, it won't tell you whether the Wii is actually booting.

Yep, the PMS fills the requirements for both of those.

The line on the right would be dangerously close to the RAM. I wouldn't recommend doing that. I don't see anything technically wrong with the other lines, it just looks like an odd trim.

If you're gonna spend $100+ on 4-layer tech's boards, you should really just spend the $20 on a 4 layer Wii. Doubling your battery life and having a smaller cooling system is worth it. I'm not sure if the RVL-PMS provides enough power for a 6 layer board, GC+ and U-amp should work fine though.

DM'd about miscellaneous parts

Not my trim, but one of my favorites. Fellow who posted this ended up getting banned, so I don't think he'll be sharing it

If you're asking whether or not you have to do wiring to build a portable Wii, then you have a lot of reading to do. Read all of the Wii related guides in the guide hub, read through a bunch of worklogs here in the Wii section, and really study what other people have done. If you get a feel...

I'd say it's probably not worth upgrading in this case, GC+ 1.0 is still very solid. At the very least, there's some good parts in there for making a better portable, $130 isn't too bad. Hope you're able to figure something out!

You're going to need a multi-meter to run any sort of diagnostics

Yeah, that guy's work is well known for not working. I don't see anything obvious from the photos you posted, but if it's not charging or booting up at all then there's definitely something wrong with the PMS or the batteries. What voltage are the batteries at right now?

Long boot times could mean USB or U10 issues.

This is the PS2 Eclipse. It's your pretty run of the mill PS2 handheld. I started work on this last spring, but didn't take the time to really finish up until a couple of months ago. Features: 5" 480p 4:3 screen PS Vita buttons and switch joysticks, controlled though PS2+ U-amp for...

Uh oh, it's been 14 months. Been going hard on this project for the last few months, here's what went down: I ended up changing or redoing almost all of the circuit boards from last year. The ABXY board now houses the circuitry for a U-amp, and I've made a board for the back of the portable...

That might be a USB issue. I don't think it's a chilling thing, as the Wii won't overheat that quickly.

In theory that could work, though it would be thicker than just resoldering the nand and really not any easier than just wiring it by hand. The best way to do a NAND relocation is to use one of these boards though. I've done it both ways and using one of these makes the process so much easier...

I see a couple of things that are absolutely causing issues. First off, the spot you circled is a pretty significant problem. You lost some of the SMD resistors and capacitors required for video output. It's fixable, but it would require soldering those tiny components that you lost back on...

This is why children who go on the internet are bullied.

You will need to DM @Noah here on the forums, that seems to be the only way to get your money back.

Yeah, it's a really shitty situation. The only way anyone has successfully contacted Noah (the person who has your money) seems to be by sending him a DM here on the forums. Not sure if it has worked recently, but I'd reccomend giving it a shot.

I think Shank experimented with something like that on a G-Boy and ended up having the batteries drain much faster than they should have with the portable powered off. It's probably not recommend, though someone else may have some insight into a better way to do it.