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Shorting voltage to GND usually doesn't kill things. It's shorting a voltage line into another voltage line that is guaranteed to kill something. My guess would be that's what you did. May as well get another Wii and try again. For the future, a cheap hot air station would make relocating SMD...

No I meant the controller data line that goes between the GC+ and the Wii's player 1 via. If you have an available controller port to use, then I would try using the controller port again to get RVLoader into safe mode and re-run the installer. If the problem is what I think it is, the GC+...

Also, the cap you destroyed is C181, which is a 1uf cap. You can harvest a replacement from the C291 spot on the top side of the trimmed off section of the mobo Remove it carefully. As far as I can see from the cap measurement spreadsheet, it's the only non-essential matching cap. If you break...

A minor voltage drop under load is normal. You should also clean up all that burnt flux on the Wii with some isoproly alcohol and a toothbrush. The burnt bits are conductive and can cause boot issues. Can you specify exactly where you were probing at the time of the magic smoke?

Nothing jumps out at me wiring wise. Unfortunately as far as I know the only way to access safe mode to reinstall RVLoader is the gamecube button combo on boot. There's no option to reboot into safe mode in the settings, so I can't even suggest syncing a wiimote to do it. My assumption is that...

If you saw magic smoke, something has kill. There's a good chance the Wii is done for, but we can try anyway. My eye is immediately drawn to the 3 marked shorts. You need to resolve these before trying anything else.

The hot air from a hair dryer is enough for heatshrink tubing. If you tape some cardboard around where you're blasting, it'll deflect enough heat to preserve the case

Always great to see re-imaginings like this!

Very nice! Will you be sharing this theme when it's complete? IIRC the default game order is tied to TitleID, which I personally never liked. Having the option for alphabetic sorting would be great!

The controls aren't working in RVLoader anymore? That's very odd. I'm not sure. Do any inputs work as expected or are they all unresponsive? @Aurelio might know

Well done! Home stretch now. Although, I must say that the amount of exposed wire you have is giving me grave anxiety for long term reliability. If these move and touch anything conductive............... instant brick

You have my attention

Dan hasn't logged in in 4 years, so probably not. You can make your own thread though and we'll figure it out

The picture is fuzzy so I can't tell for sure, but when looking at the AVE it looks like your H and V sync legs may have solder spikes shorting against neighbouring legs. Can you pull the kapton tape off and take a more clear photo of that?

No sound either would indicate that the AVE is probably damaged. Does the wiimote vibrate when you point it around at the invisible system menu channels?

To add onto this, make sure that you select the same options that you did originally. Especially patching out wifi! If you don't, you'll be forced to magnet wire in the wifi module to boot the system again.

Yeah you'll need to connect a button to the reset via

Not being able to access the system menu on a trimmed Wii is normal. Hardware that is required for it to load (wifi module) is missing, and IIRC the current implementation of the VGA patch doesn't properly support the system menu either. The version of Priiloader that is installed with RVLoader...

It's in the RVL-AMP documents list Wire the volume pot as shown and set volume control to analog in RVLoader's settings

I believe the V pad is connected to the ADC expansion pin, which is currently used by the RVL-AMP to support analog volume control. The diagrams must not have been updated after it was added. You can ignore the V pad unless you have an RVL-AMP and plan to use analog volume control.