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Oh yeah that's what I was referring to. It's a good little pocket. You could put a couple of battery tabs into the print and have that be your easy access CMOS slot instead of using the black one

That's an excellent spot to store the CMOS battery!

I have seen several people use short bits of wire to properly attach the speakers. It's probably the best way to do it. You can just use magnet wire or kynar wire for it

I didn't think a dirty U10 could do that. Good to know

Yeah that hissy screech is what those little speakers sound like when they're maxed out. You might have got a dud set, or the spring legs might not be making good contact

Somehow I forgot to type the other half of my statement, I meant to say a GCVideo will have lower latency than one of those cheap and cruddy dongles that has the shitty scaler built in

Afaik analog GCVideos only output component or VGA, both of which the Wii can do natively with the same latency. You'd be paying $100-ish for maybe 5% better sharpening over the stock AVE. A GCVideo will give vastly superior results with digital to digital in both quality and latency, but...

This is excellent!

You need to connect all 3 system select jumpers if you want the volume HUD to be visible, or no jumpers for no HUD. J3 being shorted is correct for the Ashida's analog volume wheel. IIRC when the included headphone jack is installed, HS is shorted to HL and inserting a headphone jack into the...

Especially seeing as you can't just make a Wii out of of the shelf parts and flash a stolen firmware on it. You have to buy a Wii and transplant the parts, which is a legal and protected act under USA and Australian law. Might even be in EU law too, not sure.

C, D, WS, and MC are the i2s audio lines. MC (master clock) is especially sensitive to wire length and produces a fair bit of interference to other nearby wires. If possible it should be shielded and kept away from the other lines and away from voltage wires.

That should be an acceptable wiring order. I honestly have no idea why the audio would keep resetting. Wild stab in the dark, maybe something is triggering headphones mode?

I would assume this to be either an i2c/i2s wiring issue, or a settings issue in RVLoader. How did you daisy chain the SCW/SDW lines and what do you have your AMP control method set to in the RVLoader device settings?

bruh................ wut?

So far the biggest hurdle with making an AIO transplant board has been reflowing the Hollywood and Broadway chips. For some reason the dies just seem to self destruct most of the time. Even cutting and sanding the Wii PCB off of the BGA substrate so that it only needs to be heated once still...

Can you post photos of your wiring and measure how long the USB wires are for our reference? Genuine Samsung cards usually work the best. Sandisks also work, but there are more fakes to filter through. I've had good results with Adata cards as well, but can't speak for broad compatibility.

The breakout board itself is probably fine. I don't think that short generated enough heat to melt the copper, but I'd continuity check every line just in case one did burn out. The GC+ is most likely to be the culprit, it probably fused into a short to GND. With any luck, only the GC+ and maybe...

It's shaping up!

Bugger. I didn't think the spring force on those tabs was that strong....... I'll add that to the list of stuff what can go wrong Will the system boot with the GC+ breakout disconnected? It's possible that 3.3v surged and fried a couple of the peripherals, but the Wii itself may have survived