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That's an odd spread of issues that I can't say I remember seeing before. My best guess for the controller dropout would be something funky with the controller 1 data wire. It might be worth probing the back side of RA1 to check that it is properly receiving 3.3v. I have a vague remembery that...

The Wii has no regional hardware differences like older systems like the N64 do, regional restrictions are all done in software. RVLoader removes those restrictions, so you can force 480p 60Hz in a lot of PAL games, or just play the NTSC versions of games with no penalty. Some PAL games don't...

Sometimes just one cell cannot provide stable enough power to the Wii. Try with two fully charged cells and see if anything changes

The amount of Silver Eagles you must have spent on this makes my pockets hurt

I am so hecking invested in this

Hard to say. How many cells do you have connected to the PMS at the moment?

The flexibility provided by smaller wire gauge also helps to protect the via. Thicker wires create more torque on the solder joint when moved, and are liable to break traces, rip vias out accidentally, and sometimes scratch their enamel coating off and cause shorts. Using 32 to 38AWG enameled...

All Gamecube iso files must be named "game.iso" or they won't be detected. Not sure about the Wii issue

It could be the U-Amp or the Wii. I don't know a way to know for sure

no ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

Looks good. The only thing I can think of is maybe there's poor connection between the flex and the mobo. Did you clear the soldermask off of the vias before soldering on the flex?

That driver board only accepts VGA (RGBHV) and composite. To use the VGA input you'll need a sync separator of some form

Can you provide clear photos of the U-AMP wiring and i2s audio vias wiring?

Which pads specifically did you probe? For each button footprint, 3 of the pads are voltage supply and 1 is the signal line. The signal pad is the bottom right pad of each footprint if the control board is oriented for the silkscreen text to be right way up. Removing the buttons alone wouldn't...

You're good, those traces don't do anything for a trim. Give them edges a sand and you're good to go!

So that's why these machines are so expensive.................. each one is basically hand crafted

Grats on the working trim! Merry Christmas!

Before any other troubleshooting can happen, that trim needs to be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol and a soft bristled toothbrush. There's a heap of flux and other gunk sitting about that could be causing transient shorts

You will need a PICKit 3 programmer and the free MPLABX software to load and flash the .hex file from the github. A clone PICKit 3 is fine, you don't need a genuine one for this. Once you have the PICKit and software installed, you insert the included jumper cable pins into the 5 holes by the B+...