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Nice!!! Glad to see it working. For future reference, you'll want to keep your power wires significantly shorter than they are now, both for testing and for a final design. Having something like a PTH setup or an RVL-PSU also makes life a lot nicer, since you supply all the voltage rails on the...

I would also suggest posting pictures of your whole power / wiring setup, as there could be something going on there.

Can you post some pictures of your trim? They'll probably aid in the troubleshooting process here.

Have you doubled checked that you haven't swapped D+ and D-?

Hello! As many people here know, I have a soft spot for buying broken things and trying to make them work again. Being very active here on the forums and in the Discord server, I've seen a lot of Wii trims gone bad - sliced NAND traces, gouges around the board leading to shorts, etc... In any...

Did you sand that trim at all yet? The edges look really rough, and some of those gouges are deep enough to cause concern for the possibility of shorting between layers. Here's a good plan of action: Desolder all components on the edges of the board that were cut through Sand the edges of the...

Those could both potentially be fixable, not worth wall-arting them just yet.

How are they both irreparably damaged? Also, I'll take some money if you have too much.

To add to the previous post, I made a post on another thread with a list of good tools / materials to have for this hobby: https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/cost-of-tools.5130/post-54654

You only need to bridge the original U9 points on an untrimmed board for it to boot. For a trimmed board, the aforementioned doesn't matter, you just do the relocation like you would with U10. That being said, I wouldn't give that board any power yet. The edges look really rough, I would give...

Like with my last post, all of these builds are from a little while ago, but I never posted them anywhere except quick shots on Discord. I have built 3 Ashidas so far, and intend on making many more! MY ASHIDAS This first one kind of came into my lap without me looking for it. Someone on the...

Honestly, the whole controller feels nowhere near as jarring as it looks; it actually feels quite natural to use. The Mad Catz buttons are also not the exact shape of the OEM GC controller; couple that with the moved X button and the fact that I resin printed my own buttons (which have flat tops...

I would look into the Pinecil, it's really the best bang for your buck right now. You can get a ton of different tips for it too. If you buy through aliexpress, I think you can get an iron with all the tips for around $75 or so. You definitely don't need all of them though, just worth looking...

It's been a little bit since I built this, but it's been pointed out to me that I've never made a Cutting Edge post for any of my builds, so I suppose here is a good place to start! The WiiVision Funny story about this one: I originally had bought a bunch of parts to design my own custom...

@MikaMaslak, I nominate you for best prank of the year!!! I opened a mysterious package, and was greeted with the following paper: I straight up thought this was legit until I actually read it. You had me in the first half, not gonna lie. Taking a better look into the package, I found the...

Relative to the silkscreen, so wire V from the Wii to "H" on the driver board and vise versa.

H and V are reversed on that driver board.

If just the BQ is fried, why not just replace that? You can probably get one off Aliexpress or see if anyone around here has a spare. Better than trying to cannibalize the rest of the PMS.

The best way is to look at the Definitive Trimming Guide, as well as the compendium to see where it all connects up. You can get the values for the feedback resistors from Shank's Super Thread by looking at the Ref Des numbers on the board. I would highly recommend going for something like a...

Isn't that, by definition, a portable?