Worklog First Brazilian Ashida

The only thing software related I'm thinking that could be the cause is the polarity being reversed of the switch.
 
In RVLoader's settings, did you change the PMS power on behaviour from a push button to a latching switch?

Also have you made sure that the power button on the PD module is not fused shut or somehow being pressed by poor case fitment?
 
Okay. Hello everyone, the news is bad. My Ashida monitor started having image problems, so I decided to investigate and found a short circuit on the 3.3V line. I looked for the source of the problem and identified it: U-AMP 2 was causing the short. In fact, the larger IC seems to have burned out. I removed it, tested it, and the short disappeared. Then I checked if I had damaged anything else and, apparently, nothing. However, the project is closed for now. I received a quote to buy another one on the 4 Layer Tech website, but I exceeded the international purchase limit. By my calculations, I will pay for two U-AMPs in taxes alone. So, I'm giving up on the project, not totally dead, but almost, since it has become unfeasible. But who knows, maybe one day I'll go back to working on it. I tried to make an adaptation, but without success, so it's better not to try anything else, or I might end up damaging other things. Until next time...
20260320_001600.webp
20260320_001619.webp
20260320_001705.webp
 
Okay. Hello everyone, the news is bad. My Ashida monitor started having image problems, so I decided to investigate and found a short circuit on the 3.3V line. I looked for the source of the problem and identified it: U-AMP 2 was causing the short. In fact, the larger IC seems to have burned out. I removed it, tested it, and the short disappeared. Then I checked if I had damaged anything else and, apparently, nothing. However, the project is closed for now. I received a quote to buy another one on the 4 Layer Tech website, but I exceeded the international purchase limit. By my calculations, I will pay for two U-AMPs in taxes alone. So, I'm giving up on the project, not totally dead, but almost, since it has become unfeasible. But who knows, maybe one day I'll go back to working on it. I tried to make an adaptation, but without success, so it's better not to try anything else, or I might end up damaging other things. Until next time...View attachment 42059View attachment 42060View attachment 42061

You could message Gman and ask if he'd privately disclose the part number for that IC so you can replace it without having to buy a new board. Might not be possible if the chip needs to be programmed, but it's worth an ask.
 
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You could message Gman and ask if he'd privately disclose the part number for that IC so you can replace it without having to buy a new board. Might not be possible if the chip needs to be programmed, but it's worth an ask.
Hey, yeah, Y2K sent me a link to 3 integrated circuits that might work, but the price is almost the same as buying the RVL-AMP, because even though the integrated circuit is cheap, the shipping to Brazil with taxes is quite high... besides the risk of it not working, I talked to some people on Discord about the possibility of using the RVL-AMP instead of the U-AMP 2 and I think it's possible, with some adaptations, and its price is below the international purchase limit, so maybe I'll opt for it. Do you think that would be a good idea?
 
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Hey, yeah, Y2K sent me a link to 3 integrated circuits that might work, but the price is almost the same as buying the RVL-AMP, because even though the integrated circuit is cheap, the shipping to Brazil with taxes is quite high... besides the risk of it not working, I talked to some people on Discord about the possibility of using the RVL-AMP instead of the U-AMP 2 and I think it's possible, with some adaptations, and its price is below the international purchase limit, so maybe I'll opt for it. Do you think that would be a good idea?
Yeah that would be a better option. The RVL-AMP is basically just a simplified U-AMP that only works on the Wii. It fits in the same PCB slot as the U-AMP in the Ashida and has the same overall functions, you just have to run one or two extra wires to enable the volume wheel. There are diagrams for that in the RVL-AMP documents tab
 
Yeah that would be a better option. The RVL-AMP is basically just a simplified U-AMP that only works on the Wii. It fits in the same PCB slot as the U-AMP in the Ashida and has the same overall functions, you just have to run one or two extra wires to enable the volume wheel. There are diagrams for that in the RVL-AMP documents tab
Yes, I think I'll choose that one, thank you very much.
 
I really like GC Ahida, my only problem is that it's 16:9 and I wanted to play with a 4:3 5" screen and I don't know how to edit the file.
 
I really like GC Ahida, my only problem is that it's 16:9 and I wanted to play with a 4:3 5" screen and I don't know how to edit the file.
It's possible to put the screen on 4:3 with the rvl dd for ganecube games. I believe that it's still possible to build it with a 4:3 screen instead if you really want the screen to be 4:3. You'd just have to model some spacers and print them.
That will be easier than editing the model itself. (Won't look as good)

An option to change the model is tinkercad. It's easier (and more limited) than other cad software and works pretty well with already exisiting models. Tinkercad is just harder to do it clean compared to other cad programs.
 
I really like GC Ahida, my only problem is that it's 16:9 and I wanted to play with a 4:3 5" screen and I don't know how to edit the file.
If you dont mind waiting a little longer, the guys at 4LT are soon to come out with the second version of the Ashida that supports a 4:3 5 inch screen!
20260426_130331.webp

(Taken from the MGC 2026 channel on discord)

It looks pretty slick in my opinion and is a little smaller than the original!
 
Looks nice (print itself a but rough though).
Buttons on the top. But I prefer 16:9 myself for wii games and the few gc games that properly allow 16:9. Rvl-dd does it's job well on ntsc games and several pal games. (Mostly games that support 60hz)
 
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