Worklog Ashida Worklog

I might just reset it anyway, I dont want to fool around with another program.
Ok, the mod was called ohneswazeneger or something similar. I know that Stitches did it for me last time.
Not saying that your wii won't work with the cios, but the risk of ending up bricking your wii is higher with cios.
Mine might still work, but just stuck on the wii menu with the screen being black due to me running the priiloader installer after trimming the wii. (But cios definetly makes bluetooth unusable, can guarantee that, not that you want bluetooth)
 
So long as the CIOS is only in non-system slots, like 249 and 250, it's fine. It's only replacing stock IOS modules with CIOS that cause major problems with RVLoader. Specifically I believe IOS 58, which houses the system menu, is the fucky one to not touch. Quite rare to get a 4 layer Wii that has modded stock modules these days. 99% of people just install 249 and 250 for their USB loader forwarders.
 
So long as the CIOS is only in non-system slots, like 249 and 250, it's fine. It's only replacing stock IOS modules with CIOS that cause major problems with RVLoader. Specifically I believe IOS 58, which houses the system menu, is the fucky one to not touch. Quite rare to get a 4 layer Wii that has modded stock modules these days. 99% of people just install 249 and 250 for their USB loader forwarders.
Wait srsly? Then it wasn't cios that bricked my other 2 wii's but reinstalling priiloader
 
So long as the CIOS is only in non-system slots, like 249 and 250, it's fine. It's only replacing stock IOS modules with CIOS that cause major problems with RVLoader. Specifically I believe IOS 58, which houses the system menu, is the fucky one to not touch. Quite rare to get a 4 layer Wii that has modded stock modules these days. 99% of people just install 249 and 250 for their USB loader forwarders.
Still probably gonna do a system wipe to get a fresh start, But I see your point, I forget the slot numbers, but I installed cios for my ssd on my home wii.
 
Wait srsly? Then it wasn't cios that bricked my other 2 wii's but reinstalling priiloader
Priiloader is a sort of CIOS module injector that interacts with and hijacks the sysmenu boot sequence, so yeah mostly likely. RVLoader uses a very specific version that has been heavily modified, alongside RVLoader's own IOS injections, so if any stock version of Priiloader is installed over the top of the custom one then the system will shit every possible brick. Installing the CIOS on its own can be death if it touches a needed system module, but putting both together is a guaranteed brick yes.

CIOS parenting and specific mode of install can make normally "safe" changes catastrophic at random though, so we recommend using a clean system if at all possible. The stock system wipe is usually good enough, but I help out with that where I can with Ohneschwanzenegger reconstructions when systems are too dirty.
 
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Im planning to start the case print this weekend, are there any print settings and part orientation that I should keep in mind?
 
Update:
Speakers, heatsinks, filament and batteries have arrived, Digikey order got delayed and hasnt shipped yet, and the 4lt order also hasnt shipped yet.
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Update:
Speakers, heatsinks, filament and batteries have arrived, Digikey order got delayed and hasnt shipped yet, and the 4lt order also hasnt shipped yet.View attachment 41937
I have to admit that the 4layer tech order for my rvl-dd also shipped a bit late. Patience is key. 4lt has very fast shipping once it's shipped. Usually 3-4 days from. USA to Europe.
Don't know how they do it though.
The shape of your speakers doesn't look right, usually they are rectangle without wires. So I don't know if you'll be able to fit them easily. But soldering them should be a very easy.
 
I have to admit that the 4layer tech order for my rvl-dd also shipped a bit late. Patience is key. 4lt has very fast shipping once it's shipped. Usually 3-4 days from. USA to Europe.
Don't know how they do it though.
The shape of your speakers doesn't look right, usually they are rectangle without wires. So I don't know if you'll be able to fit them easily. But soldering them should be a very easy.
The Bom ones were out of stock, I might have to hot glue them
 
The Bom ones were out of stock, I might have to hot glue them
If they are have the same width/height or smaller, you should be able to use the sticky side to stick them to the case. (Remove the white paper tab)
 
Just got some test prints done of the side grips, gray one is standard pla printed at the stock angle from the ashida stl, and the white one is pla+ printed vertically. Let me know if theres anything obvious I should change before printing the full shell.
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Hard to see differences properly with the white filament. It hides imperfections well
 
Hard to see differences properly with the white filament. It hides imperfections well
Yeah it is very hard to see it on camera, the white does look better. I did a side by side comparison of screw post durability and the vertically printed grip had the screw post split after to much force, the 45 degree print also failed after enough tightening of the screw, but not as detrimental, so im printing the case at 45. Small imperfections arent a huge deal, as this will be getting painted.
 
Front half of the case done, turned out pretty well imo, what sandpaper grits should i use to get a smooth finish?
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If they are have the same width/height or smaller, you should be able to use the sticky side to stick them to the case. (Remove the white paper tab)
The speaker body fits, but the wires prevent it from fitting. They should work fine with a little trim to the speaker box.
 
Update: Back half of the shell is finished! Im happy with the results overall, but 3 screw posts are a bit messed up, im just going to try and make them work. Next step is sanding.
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I saw on pcbways website that they offer translucent ashida cases. I might go for a crystal red front shell and a crystal blue back shell.
 
I saw on pcbways website that they offer translucent ashida cases. I might go for a crystal red front shell and a crystal blue back shell.
Yeah they are those clear ones that you see everywhere, imo the best looking shells you can get, but their super expensive
 
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