One final test is to remove the LDO completely—it might well be the culprit; if you have a bench power supply, you can apply voltage to see if it heats up.
Check that solder ball on the 1.8V LDO.Check that solder ball on the 1.8V LDO; it could also be the regulator itself. Try desoldering it and taking the measurement again.
Hi. No, I meant for all voltages from 5V down to 1.8V; besides not being able to operate at 1V, it wouldn't have the necessary current (that module has a tiny inductor anyway, so I wouldn't exceed 500mA for 5V in buck-boost mode).
For lines below that voltage, look for that green module on...
Hi guys, here are a few updates on the modifications (I hope the post isn't too old to be updated) lol:
A new PMS—a variant of the PS2 "bestiolino" for the Wii—following the same logic; it simply lacks the second regulator for the 5V and 2.5V rails. While it could have been even smaller, the...
YveltalGriffin gave you a practically perfect list; I’ve used and tested quite a few of them for the same purpose. If you want to save money, the TPS63802 module is practically perfect for 3.3V—and potentially 5V if the load is low (like for an SD card or LCD). You can even use it for 1.8V (the...
Hi Aurelio, actually, as I wrote, it came down to two modifications:
I moved the port reading, WDT, and debounce routines (previously located at the beginning of the file) to run after handling the SI signal at the start of the file (along with adding the "cascade" script via L2); this alone...
Hi, that makes sense and actually matches what I found. To be precise about the numbers: I tested with T2PR=0x1B alone on a fully stock main.c (rumble handled before the response, like the original code) — and the OSD combo stopped opening entirely, every time.
I think this lines up with your...
Hi guys, I was tinkering with my portable again when I wondered if, after all these years, I could finally break down the compatibility barrier between GC+ and GCVideo. I started by modifying the GC+ and actually had some success—I managed to open the OSD menu (using the L2 button injection...
Driven by curiosity, I gave it a try using a module I had on hand—it took just a few minutes. It isn't the ideal choice, as it's not a pure DC-DC converter, but we can see another 27mA being saved.
Hi everyone, I had this LCD board, and in my spare time, I looked at how the components could be modified to simplify the circuit and reduce both the number and size of the components—all in a simple way:
Purple box: replace the old diodes with low-voltage-drop SMD models: TOSHIBA CUS08F30,H3F...
That is precisely the problem: it is a custom IC used in the 5000x Fat and 7000x Slim models. The idea might be to use two DC-DC converters plus a bypass or override for the reset pin (which is supposed to monitor the 8.5V input).
I always understood that if the encoder wasn't present and wasn't communicating via I2C, the console wouldn't boot, similar to the Ethernet controller, but things actually seem different. Thanks for sharing this!
Basically a soldering gun—it's strange that the chip was still responding to the I2C address, allowing the boot process to complete and the audio to work.
It might simply be shorted from when you redid the soldering; cutting the board right across those traces makes it easy to cause short circuits. You can use a multimeter to check if the various video signals are grounded. If you can hear the sound—meaning everything else is working fine—then...