Solved Stuck in USB screen
- Thread starter CrispModz
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Just from what I can see there is a few things you may want to check,
1. That's a pretty long data line try to shorten it and see if that helps.
2. On the Wii side of the data lines the wires are soldered on top of the vias, you should insert them into the vias while soldering them.
3. Idk if it's just for this picture but there isn't an SD card in the slot and that will act like no USB is inserted.
If all these fails you can try to wire to the other set of USB data vias on the Wii.
Good luck!
1. That's a pretty long data line try to shorten it and see if that helps.
2. On the Wii side of the data lines the wires are soldered on top of the vias, you should insert them into the vias while soldering them.
3. Idk if it's just for this picture but there isn't an SD card in the slot and that will act like no USB is inserted.
If all these fails you can try to wire to the other set of USB data vias on the Wii.
Good luck!
Probably unrelated, but you've doubled up on the 1.8v line. You have the LDO on the board still and you're supplying 1.8v from the PMS-2. This can cause instability, so I'd remove that 1.8v wire.
You could also run a second ground wire between the Wii and the PMS. Your wires look like 24AWG, which sometimes isn't enough for stable operation with only one ground wire.
You could also run a second ground wire between the Wii and the PMS. Your wires look like 24AWG, which sometimes isn't enough for stable operation with only one ground wire.
So is it getting to the no USB detected screen despite the PD-3?
That's usually indicative of a USB wiring issue. The wire length you have there should be fine, and your twist looks alright, so my next question would be whether you have confirmed that you have D+ and D- wired to the correct pads?
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I have also had this kind of problem, the correct connection d+d- can not enter the system, re-soldering to check whether the solder joint is normal
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good job!
Nice! Did you identify what the problem was, or did a fairy somewhere wave her wand and it just started working?
The CM filters? That's a first, but it kinda makes sense.
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Which component is it?
CM1/CM2 and DA7/DA9
The CM and DA components are there to protect the CPU from static discharge. They are not required for operation and can be removed without issue. You lose the static shock protection by removing them, but that's not a problem unless you want to have an externally accessible USB port. An internal port or 4layertech PD module are safe enough without them.
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Thank youCM1/CM2 and DA7/DA9
The CM and DA components are there to protect the CPU from static discharge. They are not required for operation and can be removed without issue. You lose the static shock protection by removing them, but that's not a problem unless you want to have an externally accessible USB port. An internal port or 4layertech PD module are safe enough without them.
alehar78
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CM1/CM2 and DA7/DA9
The CM and DA components are there to protect the CPU from static discharge. They are not required for operation and can be removed without issue. You lose the static shock protection by removing them, but that's not a problem unless you want to have an externally accessible USB port. An internal port or 4layertech PD module are safe enough without them.
What exactly do you mean with an internal port?
The only thing you might want to connect to these are either the PD module or an USB female port where you can connect the USB drive.
I would assume a female USB port is considered external? If so what is an internal port?
The guide recommends using the CM2 and CM1 to connect USB.
What are the CM and DA components? Filter and buffers?
An internal port is just a female USB port that isn't accessible from outside the case. Before we had things like the PMS-PD, your choices to transfer files to the drive were to have an externally accessible port in the side of the case, or have a port hidden inside the portable that you had to open the system to access. External ports are easier to use but run the risk of damage from snagging or static discharge, internal ports are safer but require opening the case to access.
As for the CM components, IIRC one's a diode and one's a special filtering capacitor. They're basically your static shock protection and are recommended mostly for builds with externally accessible USB ports. If you're using a PMS-PD module or other microSD to USB solution, they have their own safeties in place and you can just solder your USB wires to the vias instead.
Making use of them is safe-er, but mostly unneccessary in a lot of builds now.
