Question Blue screen with composite

void

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Hi, I was working on my g wii and the composite worked before, when trying to put it together the composite does not work anymore.
 

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Did you wire the mode pin to 3v3? Oh doesn’t look like it. That disables composite output.

however, from your photos the board looks like it needs a good scrub down with ipa and a brush.. I’d start there and inspect all your joints. Clean all
That residue and see where you’re at then :)
 
Did you wire the mode pin to 3v3? Oh doesn’t look like it. That disables composite output.

however, from your photos the board looks like it needs a good scrub down with ipa and a brush.. I’d start there and inspect all your joints. Clean all
That residue and see where you’re at then :)
Cleaned up the residue and changed the composite to a different spot on the wii. Still does not work but looks a lot better now.
 

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The wire on the left looks like it's shorting against a neighbouring via. Also your tinned tips for these wires are a bit long. Ideally you only want 1-2mm of wire exposed to prevent this kind of thing
 
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The wire on the left looks like it's shorting against a neighbouring via. Also your tinned tips for these wires are a bit long. Ideally you only want 1-2mm of wire exposed to prevent this kind of thing
Thanks for the tip, I trimmed down the wires and made sure they were not touching any other things but still does not work.
 
Test your voltages at each capacitor where PMS voltage wires connect to the Wii. Also, check for 3.3 V at U10 out to via. What are those readings?

What is the behavior of the composite video? Is it a black screen? Just static? No signal? You said it had worked before...What is the wii trimmed at that point?
 
Test your voltages at each capacitor where PMS voltage wires connect to the Wii. Also, check for 3.3 V at U10 out to via. What are those readings?

What is the behavior of the composite video? Is it a black screen? Just static? No signal? You said it had worked before...What is the wii trimmed at that point?
I am getting the right voltage for 1 V, 1.15 V and 3.3 V but not 1.8 V, nothing on 1.8 V. I don't know if that is supposed to happen because I have a PMS lite. I am also getting 3.3 V on U10.
 
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And all I have is no signal, It was working before not to long ago and then I tried screwing the case together and then it stoped working when I was trying to fix controls, the menu on rvloader would detect the controls and then not detect them over and over. But the wii was at the point it i now when it was working.
 
I am getting the right voltage for 1 V, 1.15 V and 3.3 V but not 1.8 V, nothing on 1.8 V. I don't know if that is supposed to happen because I have a PMS lite. I am also getting 3.3 V on U10.
You still need to connect 1.8v with PMS lite, Its needed as a reference.
 
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Erm, you got a bit of a sploosh there

Also I'd relocate that green 1.8v wire to the tantalum capacitor next to the linear reg. Easier to make a good solder connection compared to the massive heatsink
 
The splash of solder was it, also where the red arrow on the picture is is that where you are talking about to relocate the 1.8 V
 

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No, the red arrow is the sploosh. You will only need a very thin wire to go from 1v8 on the Wii to the 1v8 pad at pms.
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Either from the top of c5 or the middle pin of the sharp regulator. The wire can be 34awg magnet if you can work with that. It’s not carrying a lot of current.

Also, try to keep the exposed ends of the wire as short as the pads you’re soldering to. Keeps it safer from accidental shorts.
 
Well now it does not work, I was fixing the controls and then 1.8 V came off so I soldered it to the top of c5 and it worked but then i screw it in and then a ground wire came off so I resoldered it but now it does not work
 
Well now it does not work, I was fixing the controls and then 1.8 V came off so I soldered it to the top of c5 and it worked but then i screw it in and then a ground wire came off so I resoldered it but now it does not work
Can you upload pics of everything you changed?
 
I didn't change much from last time it worked just move the 1.8 V wire and resolderd the ground wire next to the 1.15 V wire and when a moved the 1.8 V wire it worked
 

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To begin I would first remove the work that you have done so far in wiring and clean up the flux residue. That may not be the issue but it helps. 2. since this is a 4 layer wii you actually only need to hook up a single ground plane from the pms to the wii not on every single cap. 3. I would sand down those edges a lil better as they seem a bit rough and there could be some temperamental shorting. 4. I would shorten your wires by a long shot since having too much-exposed wire runs the risk of having shorts. You only need 1-2 mm maximum exposed and just enough tinned so it can be soldered in place. also checking your resistances should help in diagnosing if it is the pms or the wii that is the issue. If it is the pms all the voltage lines should be outputting the proper voltage without the wii connected and the wii should have the correct resistances according to wesk's diagram. If all that and all else fails it could be the u10being spotty but you are using the pms 2 with emulated u 10 so take that suggestion with a grain of salt.
 
I did some testing and the 1.15 V not connected to the wii is 1.15 V but when it is connected to the wii its 0.03 V. Also Where would I test resistance.
 
that means you have a short on the wii. I would not boot up the wii until you have resanded the wii and checked the resistances. I would do some personal research on how to use a multimeter and stuff, but to answer your question measuring from ground to the 1.15 v pad on the resistance mode on your multimeter is how you do it
 
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