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Be mindful that there's much, much, more to the story than credits pages in guides and major threads. There are lots of threads on modretro that help fill in the story, but the forums are down right now, so I can't pull them up. Here's a BitBuilt thread that has some Wii history.

Check each voltage rail to gnd and make sure your resistance is abnormally low. Once that's done, sand it with some high grit and you should be good to go

There was actually a LOT more that he had to cut out to not go over the time limit

Sounds awesome! I'm totally down to help!

You may be running stuff through the internal light rather than straight through the switch which could cause a voltage drop or whatnot.

Wire up USB

Short the reset line to gnd and see if you get anything

This is misleading. The sensor bar is powered by a 12v pwm signal. If you are referring to "powering a sensor bar off USB" only later versions with less LEDs can do that. The sensor bar doesn't send any data, it's just a bunch of LEDs the Wii remote sees. You can use any IR LEDs you want, with...

My body is ready

I've read that 940nm is more effective than 850, but I have yet to test it myself, so don't take that as absolute fact.

For a handheld, just having 2 IR leds is enough, just one on each side. You shouldn't need that many :D

If you are really struggling to get them off, I think you would be better off trying to get a hold of an RVK board from a family edition Wii. The board is essentially the exact same, but it just doesn't have any GameCube ports soldered onto the pads

If you burnt off the pad it's very likely you have your iron too hot. You may want to turn down the heat

You should be fine. Just run the u10 wire like normal, and run 3.3v to the other pin that you normally don't run a wire to.

Please don't bump old threads unless you have something significant to add.

The AV pinout is the same on 4 layer and 6 layer boards. Pin 10 is 3.3v, and pin 8 is mode.

Posting some pictures will help a ton. We cant really diagnose from that.

Quite litterally everything. When working with electronics, your multimeter is just as essential as your eyeballs.