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Please don't advertise your threads on other threads, keep the threads on topic. Be patient, replies take time. In the mean time, you should search and read up as much as you can on the forums, your answers may already be out there.

Excellent first project! Congratulations on finishing! Like gman said, your first project never comes out how you want, so don't beat yourself up over what you see as imperfections. I think this one turned out well, and I know your second one will be even better!

I'm sorry for your loss

Sounds like it's still U10. You did run a wire from the U10's leg to the via, right? I don't see one in the picture. The Wii CAN boot without U10 being present, but pretty much everything stops working.

Strange. Do you have a sillyscope to sniff whats going on? If its all 4, my first guess would be to check the 3.3v pullup resistor array for the back of the Wii mobo. Did you relocate U10? U10 shenanigans can mess with many things, including the 3.3v regulator. I hope its not something inside...

Is it not working on all 4 ports?

I would suggest reading through the guides in the guide hub, and reading as many worklogs as you can to learn from their mistakes. Once you either reach a starting point or hit a brick wall, I would suggest starting a your own worklog thread. This will help keep threads on topic. Either way, XCK...

I feel like given the low amount of heat that needs to actually be transferred, the heat spreader wouldn't be a bottleneck in terms of heat dissipation. Have you run any tests with thermal probes/cameras to confirm that this actually has an effect on cooling performance? At first glance, this...

Keep in mind those processors aren't running at those thermal levels all the time and are capable of thermal throttling to maintain a safe cooling level. 4 layer wiis use about 6 watts of power. This is the board itself, not counting inefficiencies like regulators and whatnot. You can shave...

Put me down for at least 2

Whoops. Forgot to post the link my bad http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

I used 3.3v, and ran the IR leds in series and through a resistor. You can run them from any voltage, as long as you have the right current limiting resistor. The stock Wii sensor bar runs on 12v, but if you are using your own LEDs, it doesn't matter the voltage as long as you have a resistor to...

Yeaaaaa i should proooooobably post this here, huh...

From what I understand, that board is just traces aside from an LED and a current limiting resistor for it. You should be able to cut that part off no problem, rewire it if you want an LED, or even desolder the ports from the board and just run wires by hand from the bare ports to the console...

He wrote it on the note. You reveal it after you give the gift.

@Herma knows I like guitars and projects so he got me a hand wound pickup he made, complete with documentation and a formal written apalogy for it's performance. Excited to throw this in a project guitar in the future.

Isopropyl alcohol, the higher the percentage, the better