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I'm wondering if the calibration on your DMM is just really shotty... The pic of guyman's table is referencing an OM6 trim (6 layer mobo) which has much smaller resistances on some of the lines, notable 1v. You should be getting around 130 ohms on the 1v line, 45 ohms on the 1v15 line, 36 ohms...

Red goes in Omega, black goes in COM. You can set it to 200 for 1v, 1v15 and 1v8, set to 20k for 3v3.

Those joints still look pretty shotty imo; not obviously shorting, but you should add some flux and reflow. Once that's done, can you take shots of the full board again? Good to have the latest.

Reading back in your thread, did you ever investigate this? The left sides of those caps are connected to 1v8, and the right to GND. It looks like that solder ball is going completely across the top cap. That is most likely your issue.

Keep your board clean of flux, stray solder balls / blobs, wire, or any other FOD. Keep exposed wire short enough to cover a joint and no longer. Always sanity check before applying power (usually using a multimeter to check resistances / continuity of whatever you're working on)... Regarding...

That's perfectly fine as is, you just grazed the soldermask layer off. If you had burned through the copper layer and into the second layer, that could have been at risk for shorting, but such isn't the case here!

That is unbelievably sexy!!! Have you done any kind of thermal stress testing to ensure the cooling is good?

It's best to list all info and prices in the listing itself. People shouldn't need to dm you for that kind of stuff.

For now, I'm planning on just going with composite. I have a 64HD on hand, but I figure it's not really worth it for a portable. More power draw, and is is *really* going to be worth it? Idk...

Be sure to start a worklog, it's the best way to keep track of progress and get advice / feedback from other forum members!

Either will work, the definitive trimming guide definitely has a lot more information laid out all in one page. The shared info in both is pretty much the same though, maybe minus the trim lines. The G-Boy cuts off the corners on top and keeps the fourth screw hole. I like that trim, personally...

If you're seeing shorts on your RGB lines, I'd recommend completely disconnecting your VGA wiring from the Wii. If you're still seeing dead shorts to ground (75 ohms is normaal for each color line), then you know the issue is on the Wii side. If everything looks good, check to see if the short...

Wire up composite to the screen and temporarily disconnect mode from 3v3, switch the screen to AV and then go to the home menu. Set the time, then you can undo the composite wiring and reconnect mode to 3v3.

Pictures are good to have in for-sale posts.

After making the flex, I made the receiving end Cart-FFC board... but then I realized that, with the way everything was oriented, the cart (and label) would be facing inward (towards the portable) with my current idea of how this is all going together... I can't just move the FFC to the other...

I DM'd you ;)

Looks like you didn't wire SCW / SDW to your RVL-AMP. You can daisy chain it off of the PMS.

A good start is to make sure there aren't any shorts between the voltage outputs / B+ and GND. From there, hook up the bare minimum: one battery (preferably using a cell holder) and a button between BTN and GND. From there, turn it on with the button, and check all your voltage outputs with a...

You can modify the Noldendo trim lines to work with a 4-layer board, but you'll have to do some research on how to do so. The reason it's been said that it "can't be done" is because the end result would not fit in the original Noldendo case. That being said, if you're designing your own case...

6-layer boards should not be used for portables, they draw twice the power and generate twice the heat of their 4-layer counterparts. Given that a Wii with a broken disc drive is $20 shipped on eBay, it's not a big investment to pick one up for the project. That being said, you cannot use the...