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3D printer remains halfway in the grave, so still no test prints unfortunately. Got the two time-intensive PCBs knocked out though. I finished the board in the front of the portable with the GC+ and controller pads. The wall of vias on the side is for power, trigger buttons, video, and the...

It depends on a few different factors. If you use a four layer Wii, with 4 3500mAh-ish 18650 batteries, and a Wii PMS you can expect to get 4 hours of battery life on Wii games and upwards of 5 on GameCube games.

180mm x 86mm x 28mm

Two USB ports allows you to use an extra peripheral like a GameCube controller adapter alongside your main USB. I would also reccomend moving to a 4 layer board. 6 layer boards are much harder to cool and get noticeably inferior battery life. Nobody has ever made a Wii portable with a trimmed...

Before this tutorial starts, keep in mind that you should go into this hobby expecting to spend a decent amount of money, at least from the perspective of a high-school/college modder. Your first project will be quite pricey, because you have many investments that need to be made before you can...

Fusion 360 is free if you're a student. That's a program that a lot of people pick up for portablizing, it's one of the easier ones to learn.

Multiple people have used standard SanDisk cards without issue. The only problem with SanDisk that I know of is that the Nintendo Switch brand ones don't run Wii games for whatever reason, so I'd avoid those.

Probably spent more time working on this over the weekend than I should have, but I made progress that I'm happy with. The back of the case was where I spent most of my time and I don't have a whole ton left to figure out. The top of the case has the USB-C port, the LED indicator, and the...

Portable looks sick, can't wait to see how this turns out! RIP Wiiner but we can't win them all...

Start by building a portable, then you can worry more about whether or not it's quality enough to sell. It personally took me around 3 years of modding and several portables before I felt ready to do commissions, and that's how it is for the few of us who do sell them.

What screen are you using? A lot of screens say they need 12v, but can be modified to run off of 3.3v./5v.

Here is a new zip file with some updated parts. I went ahead and added the files I've been using on my commissions, which are mostly the same except for the usage of a single button dpad. The dpad used is one from 3rd party joycon shells, so if you do want a dpad you may be better off editing...

Try looking into Gold Phoenix, they do low quantity runs of flex PCBs for pretty cheap. I think it cost me like $25 for like 15 boards around that size, and most of that was in shipping costs. I was working on basically the same thing you are but I ran into issues. Nold actually got my board...

My 3D printer killed itself again and rather than deal with that problem I decided to work on another project. It's still in the early phases, but here's the plan: I've been wanting to do a Wiiboy-esque portable pretty much since I saw the original Wiiboy, and I'm finally getting around to...

I've done some research and unfortunately there currently isnt a method to run it on portables. The devs require the disc to help prevent hackers, and unfortunately a side effect of this is that we can't use any recent versions on our portables.

All right, unfortunately I ran out for a while and had to wait for JLC to ship me some more boards but I've now got enough PCBs to last a lifetime so I shouldn't run out of stock again.

This is where all the cool kids are at least (and Noah).

I used a more traditional 35mm fan and heatsink setup like the ones used in portables such as the G-Wii, Wii SP 2.0, and other portables. The Waker used a weird fan that ShockSlayer really liked, but it was very loud and the cooling wasn't as good overall.

This is wrong. The Homebrew channel being upside down is a normal part of PortablizeMii, there is no fix for it with PortablizeMii. The Fit Plus should work well enough, so I'm not sure what's happening here. I'd recommend making sure your USB is formatted to FAT32 with 32kb clusters, and...

You definitely didn't cut to far in so that's good. Like xspring said, make sure too sand the edges really well. Your board definitely looks tough in some parts, especially along the edge next to the AVE.