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Have you verified that all of the pins on the NAND have continuity with their corresponding pins on the original footprint? You have to check from the actual leg of the NAND, not from the pad on the flex, in order to ensure continuity. If all of that checks out okay, I would still give the pins...

Physically stacking? No, for a couple of reasons: It would require a great deal of manual wiring, given that RDRAM is controlled in a daisy chain, where you would have have to wire SIN / SOUT of each chip... it would end up not being a 1:1 connection. RDRAM runs at 500MHz, which makes...

A couple of questions / comments: What do you mean by 5V wired to AV? The only place where you should be applying 5V in the Noldendo Miicro is to the USB ports and the to Gamecube Controller ports. If you're actually wiring 5V to your AV line... that would be bad. You should not have 1v8...

You can either buy a sheet and cut it down with a dremel, or you can order from a service like OnlineMetals.

I've found that 12V 1A isn't enough juice to stably run a 6 layer, I've always had to go with a 2A / 3A wall wart to get good stability. That said, 5V 2A falls below that power "requirement." Why don't you use a USB-C PD board that triggers at 15V 3A? That's a common profile on PD chargers (more...

Yeah... if they're all gone, it's really more worth it for you to just pick up a new Wii for $20 off eBay. I was going to say you could try the method of grinding down the package and soldering to the leadframes, but 24 pins is just not worth trying imo. There is no way of flashing a new NAND...

Which pin? There are plenty that are not needed / not connected to anything on the Wii.

https://github.com/Gmanmodz

The 64AMP is opensource on Gunnar's github. As for the N64PMS, you can do what I did and modify the opensource RVL-PMS into an N64PMS (just cut off the top of the board and rearrange some pads)

What's your battery voltage? Sounds like it could just be a case of low battery.

Gotcha gotcha! Hey, if it works, it works! From what I've experienced, the adhesive on these heatsinks isn't too permanent, they can usually come off with a light twist, but I 100% see your point and like the idea of ease-of-disassembly. Regarding the copper plates, I feel like it might be even...

IIRC Gman had some cooling issues with the N64SPv1, and ended up going with regular ol' heatsinks on all of the chips Also curious, why did you attach copper plates to the bottom of each of your heatsinks? And what are you using to mount the copper plate to the heatsink / N64 chips? Each layer...

It's not required and the system will boot just fine without it.

That's the audio amp, you'll need it for what you're doing. You can either file away at the package to expose the lead and solder to that, or you can remove it and replace it with a new one. If you want to go with the latter, hit me up! I have more than a couple to spare and can send them for...

That trim and your resistances look good! Most multimeters will beep for continuity for anything below 50(ish) ohms, but we're really looking for dead shorts (0 ohms) with our checks. It's normal for those lines to have that low of resistances. For future trims, I would recommend starting with...

Honestly, you can power the GC+ with 34awg, so whatever he's using should be fine.

That is a 3v3 supply from the Wii board. You don't need to wire 3v3 to that point. It looks like you have 3v3 wired to your controller board, I would confirm that just to be sure.

My guess here is that you didn't wire SDA / SCL between the PMS and the UAMP, and that you only have those lines going between the Wii and the PMS. Also you can edit your post instead of double posting, it helps keep thread clutter down.

If you're not seeing any audio settings available in RVLoader, I would think there's a problem with the i2c communication (SDA / SCL). Are you able to see temperature / battery level in RVLoader? And in the RVLoader settings, under status, does it say "PMS2 / Lite detected" and "UAMP2 / RVL-AMP...

Yes, you can just hook it up to a bench power supply and check your output voltages.