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Check the datasheet of the Main chip of the litlle board. If you found it you know where to connect the Composite signal and you don't need the big board anymore. GreatScott made good video on the subject :

Ever since I saw the awesome NDS TV OUT work done by the Nintendo DS lost history team I had only one idea in mind, : improve the system and be able to integrate it directly into the DS. (I recently discovered that someone has done this before me, pretty neat link). Here my goal is to add an...

After testing with an audio Jack input, the sense didn't work. But after checking everything, I found no mistake ... As I had connected the 1.8v with a fairly thin wire (0.2mm) directly to the Wii and not to the power supply, I connected a larger wire directly to the 1.8V output of the power...

Today I tested the Controller, and it works very well ! After I tested the U-Amp, but I got a strange issue : The sound come very low, even when I ride it to the max, and when I go down to the minimum it goes down well because after a while we hear nothing.

Test time ! I just tested the GL823K µSD to USB, and it works like a charm ! Tested with GC and Wii games with noname 4Go µSD cards and Samsung 64Go µSD cards. This little circuit is really great, only needs to add 4 capacitors to make it work (no external oscillator, no resistors). I also...

Today I tested some print to adjust the L/R trigger, and now it work perfectly. I also soldered the controller and amp component to their PCBs. This time I finally use stencils ! And it's really much easier and faster O.o (and cleaner) I will test them soon, before that I have to make some...

Today I worked on a way to secure the Omega trimed Wii in place. It will be fixed on one side by hooks, and on the other by a part that will stick it on the heatsink (red part). I have also worked on L/R trigger. For now I need to test this concept.

CAO Time I'm glad I did all the top part today ! Now all I have to do is print and adjust, and make the bottom case. I'm a little worried, I'm not sure how to fix the Wii without glue, it's going to be pretty tricky

Today I cut a little more. And I moved the 3.3V capacitor below by sanding to directly reach the 3.3V layer. And it work fine :)

Talking about cooling. I just welded the copper heat sink to a copper plate, and for the fan I'm going to use a small blower fan.

Io cutted the Wii to very small shape. And this time it works <3

After some pain time, I finished to wire the NAND. At the first test, it did not boot. I had just reversed 2 wires, after fixing this mistake it works :D

Good news, today I have tried again to do an AVE relocation (after 2 fail and probably killed motherboards ... RIP). And this time it works fine ! Thank you very much to YveltalGriffin for all his advice Now I need to do NAND relocation by hand :( Because I haven't bought a relocation PCB...

Very clean portable with a lot of nice idea, can't wait to see it fully assembled. Nice to see a Bluetooth compatible portable Wii :) I definitely need to test this !

Thanks guys :D And I forgot, I have made a laser cuted foam for the case, with black fabric underneath. It works very great but need to be cleaned several times because the cutting process create some kind of sticky material. In any case, it's so much cleaner than cutting by hand with a cutter !

I finished the V2.1 !

I'm happy, I just received my PCBs from JLCPCB ! As always they look great, this time I ordered stencils to speed the assembly process. I also received the majority of the components, unfortunately for the PMS all the regulators without exception were not in stock everywhere. So I have already...

Very clean portable :) And the video are awesome !

For the ground plan, I saw that it was recommended to put some around the board to have a faraday cage effect. And I saw some PCBs that did that too.

I just finish, here is the result : (more small and optimized than V1)