Search results

Ah okay, in that case you should theoritically just run wires from the switches (metal dome or tactile or rubber contact?) and connect them to the GC+ or arduino or whatever. As long as the board is supplied power and has it's connection to the switches, then it should function as well.

Not sure what you mean, but you can actually use an Arduino to make a GC controller. https://github.com/NicoHood/Nintendo If you just want a sound effect, you can possibly wire the tactile switch to an Arduino's digital input and have the Arduino play a PCM sample with a piezo. I would also like...

Sorry, for some reason the diagram I saw didn't include HV, probably because it's old. Still, digging into the leadframe is unnecessary as the pins are intact (from what i can see.)

I checked the pinout on the AVE, the pins he bent/knocked off are actually NC or GND pins so there shouldn't be a need to dig into the leadframe.

Paintjob looks sickkk!

This is what I've been thinking for a while. If both NANDs and 3 daughterboards are relocated (and SMC disabled), it seems like just a matter of time until someone trims up to those 2 inductors next to the RAM (or around there). Of course this will be cutting off 2 of the regulators but that...

looks ok, though you should use less solder and more flux on those U10 joints.

https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/wii-u-r-d-thread.3683/

Insane quality for what is basically a madkatz controller. I wonder how it'll feel with quality (T3) joysticks and buttons?

Technically it could. But there are firmware and software limitations which dont allow bluetooth audio streaming. And I'm not aware of any homebrew that allows it (or if it's even possible).

Hello, I was wondering what orientation the female TRRS connectors should go. I know it doesn't really matter as long as I wire the dongles correctly according to the PCB (which I did). I have the large copper prong facing downwards (look at the pic), But what way did you guys end up orienting...

ill be greatly disappointed if this portable doesn't have atleast a bit of Mountain dew green paint on the shell (Jk, hope it goes well!)

I just wanted to bring a bit of closure to this thread. I decided to open up my Hantek 2D42 recently to see if there were internal issues. You see, when I probed a resistor with a known resistance of 10-100 ohms, it would say "0 ohms". When I tried a 1k ohm resistor, it said "19.76k ohms". I...

Apparently the Disc Drive has already been patched out according to Yveltal.

Can't wait for the wind-powered G-wii

The compendium is always the answer!

Should be fine. Btw the Diamond cutting wheels are great for this type of work.

Nice! I do think having a spare RVL-PSU for troubleshooting stuff like this is pretty handy.

By itself, you'll need to transfer over the GC ports and the passive components (its like 7 per port). I think it'll be easier to just use magnet wire to bypass all that hassle and solder directly to the vias.

Would like to see a LMAO one!