Search results

That cut is just fine. I would probably move that capacitor along the edge up towards the big chips a bit if you've got a hot air station on hand, but it should be fine.

Make sure to twist your USB data wires together as tight as possible. It might also be worth using the vias instead of the protection complements for the data lines, you have to mess up pretty brutally to kill the USB lines.

The strat is to get 3 different colors of 34 gauge magnet wire, and then just take pictures of what wire is which before screwing the board in. Costs a bit up front, but this saves me a lot of headaches during final assembly

Might be a USB issue.

I am so sick and tired of my YouTube comment section calling me offensive names like "string bean" and "twig-looking-ass". To fix this, I need to get absolutely shredded so that I can beat anyone who calls me names on the internet into a pulp. Wii Fit is obviously the best way to get into...

No, the volume settings on the screen don't have any utility unfortunately. You'll still need a separate amplifier setup like a U-amp to get sound out and control it properly.

Are you trying to boot a Wii game? If so, then you need to disable Bluetooth on a game-by-game basis if you didn't relocate the BT module

The GC2Wiimote hack works with any gamecube controller, I'm not sure what purpose attaching a GC+ in this scenario would have

Building the PMS 1 isn't an option anymore, as too many of the components it uses are out of stock for the foreseeable future. Gman posted an update recently saying that more PMS Lites will be back in stock in the near future, so I'd recommend waiting a little while for that.

Yep

Did you connect the mode pin to 3.3v?

Saw that screen recently, it's probably a U10 issue. Make sure you've got solid connections for it.

You'll probably have to tear it down to get the disc out. I don't think there's any secret technique for forcing a disk out

These files are old and dumb, new files can be found here: https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/louii-twoii-cad-files.4886/#post-52459

I've updated the Louii CAD files to be compatible with the 4LayerTech suite, as well as a variety of other small features to improve the build. It's 2AM and I'm sleepy, so I'll flesh out this post with more details when I'm not exhausted, but here's a quick rundown. The attached files include...

With the addressable LED, you have to enable that feature in the power settings of RVLoader once the PMS is connected to the Wii. The LED won't light up until you do, as basic LED is the default configuration.

I've completely rehauled the old Louii cad files to fit the new 4-layer tech boards along with some quality of life improvements. I'll release the updated cad files along with the custom PCB designs within the week, I just want to be sure that the files are all good.

Nah, I just ran a .thp file and cut the video to make it look like it's a boot video.

Maybe if the perfectly sized lipo exists. The problem is that most lipos are too big to able to stack two of them on top of each other, and the ones that are thin enough to stack two tall in the case are all too wide and would get in the way of the Wii/power boards.

"Nintendo FakeCube" is a terrible name because this thing wasn't made by Nintendo and it isn't fake, but it's what I've been calling it for the last six months and the name has just kinda stuck. Meet my new baby: Features: 480p 5" display through VGA USB-C charging and data transfer...