Search results

Also in case anyone is interested to know, the motherboard revision that only uses the single lid switch is date code 7D

So I want to give my HDMI transmitter an on board I2C to USB connection, and I wanted to see if anyone has ever used a TINY45 as the bridge controller, I found this simple schematic: Any thoughts?

Sorry that was probably too subtle lol, what I meant is that its on me, just send me a PM telling me where to send it

not much, small packages are easy and therefore aren't expensive

You know I've still got one of RDC's PS2miniDS2 boards, I'd be happy to send it to you if you want it

Unfortunately FreeMcBoot isn't going to help so much with loading games from the disc drive, you'd pretty much be limited to USB and Ethernet loading, but that hasn't stopped some pretty sick portables from being built. Do you have a set of swap magic discs, or a cheat device like an Action...

Do you remember the zenith screen? It was just a modified recased psone screen, but it was made to use 8.5 volts through the addition of one or two resistors and capacitors soldered over existing components, so in theory it would be possible to run it on 8.5 volts

And actually I was wrong earlier when I said it was 16:9, its actually 5:3

Likely just an amalgamation put forth by your brain juggling too many number sets, and many number sets there are https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Display_resolution#/media/File:Vector_Video_Standards8.svg

Its 800x480

Don't forget to take the aspect ratio into account, that screen is 16:9, while PS2 games are overwhelmingly 4:3

That blows, I measured the ones in my system's disc drive, and they were 65 and 49 at 20k, but its always possible that the DVD power driver IC is wearing out

Why did you start playing with the potentiometer values in the first place? If you don't mind me asking, and do you know what they are supposed to be?

Have you tried swapping DVD drives? You can get spare parts from this guy http://store.richspsxparts.com/slps2sclaspm.html

Wow you have a Japanese console? Anyway it should be fine, I'd be interested to see how (if at all) it differs from the 79001 though

20-18 gauge wire will more than suffice

Also, and I don't mean to knit pick, but the LED is red when power is first applied, its only supposed to turn green when the reset switch is pushed

Well yes, but we've given you other ways to tell if the board still works, you said the fan isn't an option, so just try the video method

Is there a particular reason you're so fixated on the LED?

I concur with @Stitches The best and quickest way to tell if your motherboard is still alive (especially when you've chopped off the protuberance where the 8 pin FFC socket is located) is to just connect it to a TV using composite video, and see if you get the main menu. Another way in a pinch...