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I'm not sure, could be depending on the scenario. I'm saying the battery needs to be unplugged to get a reading and there is no point going down the rabbit hole with a not applicable measurement.

The way resistance mode works is by putting a very small current between the meter probes and then measuring the voltage from the current. Using R=V/I it calculates the resistance. So you can see that if the battery is connected and there is voltage on the board, you wont get an accurate...

Are you measuring the resistance when the PMS has the battery connected? The battery must be disconnected to measure resistance. Is there a bubble on the BQ chip in the middle? Hard to tell, might just be residue.

https://github.com/joeldipops/TransferBoy/blob/master/docs/TransferPakReference.md http://www.qwertymodo.com/hardware-projects/n64/nonvolatile-nintendo-64-controller-pak The hardware protocol does not change between any of these adapters. It is still a parallel interface. CRC can be done in...

The protocol is a parallel interface that works with the SRAM interface with data bus, address bus, chip enable, write enable. You can find the specifics of the timing in the SRAM datasheets. As you already say the rumble pak works by writing to a specific address 0 or 1 to turn on the rumble...

We need pictures of all of your wiring to be able to help you better.

It's beautiful. The black nylon and natural grey nylon sls from jlcpcb might be a good option at keeping close to the original scheme while having the case more durable if you make another version. If you disregarded the cd slide in, could you fit a larger battery?

If you are selling something generally you upload pictures of what you have and also put a price.

I admire your hopefulness. For everyone's sake, I hope you are right.

Ok well if you shorted it and it made a noise it could very well be toasted. I would say something is damaged on the PMS. It's not that the power button "isn't working". This is because the PMS is damaged and stays in bootloader mode because it can't fully boot since something is damaged. You...

I would remove the SCW and SDW wires from the pms. Then use a q-tip and isopropyl alcohol to clean off all the resides on the top and bottom of the PMS. I dont see a smoking gun but I am sure the PMS is stuck in bootloader mode. Did you try to update the pms firmware from rvloader at any point?

I hope you mean next summer O.o

Can you try and get some very good picture of the pms and pd? I really cannot say anything from these pictures

I think like half of the chips on the pcb are out of stock and probably will be for a while..

What's going on with the u10 via wire?

Ok I misread. If it is always powered on, this means the PMS has a problem and is stuck in bootloader mode. It keeps it powered on so that in the event the PMS is accidentally bricked, you can re-run the firmware update from rvloader and restore the PMS. I would disconnect the SCW SDW wires from...

Is the battery voltage around 3.3v too? If so, the PMS turns off automatically when it is below 3v3. But it should still be able to charge.

you're on a roll!!

That's a pmsmv1 in the picture? We are developing a new pmsv2 firmware with completely redesigned temp feedback control and rvloader configurations and with the regular 35mm fan it can keep the ashida around 47C with the fan not on full blast. We're testing the finishing touches so it shouldnt...

How are you measuring the temperature? I am testing an Ashida with 2 35x35x10mm heatsinks and a 40mm noctua fan and to my delight it was able to keep it at 34C with the fan on near minimum speed. With the fan on full blast it was only 1-2 degrees less so I think it's about the best performance...