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attaching wires to it will make sanding it more difficult. Sanding and resistance test should come first after trimming. If you dont pass the resistance test, you could damage the ps2pms if you attempt to power it

I remember following the gameboy64 worklog back in the day, cant wait to see this!

You can always temporarily use the analog input mode on the 64amp. id rather see that then it be mutilated which who knows how thatll work. I IVDD separation would be trouble. uamp uses 16LF and 64amp uses 16F, they are different chips.

It is a VBUS->5v step down regulator. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/LMZM23601V5SILT/9371301

Nope only the soldering station

When it resets, you mean the wii itself resets? If thats the case to me that sounds like it is nothing to do with the lcd and a problem either on the wii, pms, or usb.

Anything could be bad. It's pretty generic symptom and without more information and pictures we cant really diagnose it.

the wires on the usbc board have too much wire exposed. See how the vsys wire looks like it is touching the pad next to it? Not good.

That's up to you when you are exhausted of troubleshooting. I'm not sure what else to say about the motherboard

The resistance is low enough to trigger false continuity. I am saying you dont have a short there.

The 1.25V uses higher current, it will have lower resistance naturally. It's OK. I think you are looking in wrong direction.

In my opinion they are both great beginner builds. The gboy has full guide and there are plenty of worklogs/streams of the gwii. I would choose whichever you like best

Oh alright thats not correct. BTN is wired to tact switch to ground. This turns on the regulators when you hold it down for 1 second. Another switch to ground is wired to ps2 reset which turns on the ps2 after voltage is applied

Which spot on pms? It is suppose to be to ground (any ground). Or you can connect the ps2 reset to the R pad which will do the signal automatically. But for testing purpose its better to use a pushbutton until you verify it working. No I mean measuring the resistance, it should be close to 0 ohms

Everything looks fine from what I can see. Are you pressing reset connected to ground? Check continuity from the 5v spot to 5v on the video encoder. Just to be sure there isnt some current leaking somewhere and that is what you are measuring.

I dont know a lot about smash either. What is the point of mechanically knotched controller if his custom pcb can do knotched emulation?

Check continuity to the 5V spot on the video encoder https://bitbuilt.net/images/guide_hub/console_modding/ps2/gman_definitive_ps2/Video_Bottom.png Also check continuity to the 2.5v on both spots on the video encoder...

I just put in an order to make more Uamps so it'll probably be atleast a couple of weeks

What gauge wire is that? You should be using 22awg for the 1.25v and ground, there is significant current here and can result in voltage drop if thinner wire is used.

Without a pcb heater it can take several minutes with a hot air gun to heat it up enough to carefully remove them