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Yes it connects between Pin7 of both clock generators and PIF pin8. Maybe this is source of instability?

Pin7 is a delayed 3.3v signal to several components and is needed to be relocated

if it wasnt having this experience before I think it is most certainly due to the stability of the 48Mhz clock. The oscillators have a short limit to how far you can relocate them before they stop working well

X1 is the oscillator for 48Mhz clock to the RCP and the video encoder. If you decrease the stability of this signal it will halt the n64

Hi, unfortunately there is not an estimate if/when they will be back in stock. Perhaps there will be more clear answers in the coming weeks.

I'm not sure. Is it possible you have a GC controller port you can wire and test the wii with another gc controller?

Looks better. How are you testing it? I see you didnt have the joysticks plugged in.

The gc data on the wii via doesnt look great. Make sure you scraped off the solder mask to expose the copper otherwise it wont be a connection. youve also got solder splashes on the surrounding area which signals that there wasnt sufficient flux and the solder could be forming a short circuit

You need to share pictures and as much detail otherwise we do not have much to go off of.

IIRC the oem joystick ranges are +-78. I programmed mine to +-80. The extra 2 steps is helpful on games like star wars podracer where you need to be pointed up to activate boost, so you can activate boost while still managing to turn to some degree. It's not too oversensitive. N64 joystick...

It does have a built in FRAM pak on the pcb. Saves/Rumble support would be much easier implemented when N64+ controller emulator is developed (soon tm). I'm hesitant to change much else until that is a better option to use. It would cut down on a lot of components, including the mcu I have on...

Lot of twisted wires inside. Next time I will add secondary pads for the input side for the screen and RGB amp. I dont mean to rep the everdrive but the blue does look nice here. @marshallh pls help me get the 64drive functioning on these N64 trims. UltraVGA-2 is a banger. The on-screen volume...

Epic!

I had similar trouble, looked exactly the same. I would try my best to fill both sides separately, then sandwich them together and put a small weight on top while it dries. There would be some overflow so do it on a disposable surface. Molds should in good practice be designed with pour spouts...

Some updates to the N64SP. On the pcb I added optional circuit for RGB amp + HV buffer for VGA out port. I added test pads for the volume + - control buttons, and both speakers to be wired to the new ultraVGA. Obviously I have not populated the digital audio amp circuit either on the pcb. I...

The speakers should be matched to your audio amplifier. Take note of the rated ohms and power.

I see. By default the trace is connected on the top of the motherboard but you remove the copper to prevent shorts on the components.

Very nice job! I tried a similar jumper pak shortcut a little while ago and could not get it working. I had to do a 90 degree desolder - resolder slot instead.

I cleaned up the unnecessary messages in the thread, it got a little side-tracked. Please remember the rules: post in english, don't double post. The language barrier is difficult here and I feel neither of our messages are coming across as intended. Let's stay focused on your Wii problem.

You might have to in order to sufficiently sand the board