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You've ripped up all the pads.

A quick update: I'm currently working on improvements to the design by adding features such as a switch to enable/disable the SD card slot so to allow the 2nd memory card port to be functional again, and to have an optional shell that incorporates a rotatable PS2 logo. I'm also renaming the...

It's designed for direct screwing into the case, FDM prints can take a considerable amount of screwing/unscrewing before failure. Resin prints aren't as forgiving but plenty of others have built the Ashida without threaded inserts.

PLEASE READ THE FIRST POST THOROUGHLY

This is something you'll need to tackle yourself.

The stock sensor bar requires 12v which the Ashida doesn't have. You'd need to make a custom LED bar that runs off 5v. There is room for a HDMI port above the LCD on the front of the case.

Updated OP to only include the front parts. Rear half of the case should be downloaded from the official G-Wii thread as it gets updated.

That or use Coaxial/WiFi antenna wire.

Use shielded wire.

Hell no.

The rumble lines are not connected to anything on the Ashida boards. I believe all you need to do is bridge the 3.3v pad with the MP pad and wire your rumble device to M+ and M-.

Portables aren't cheap to build.

Issues were found with the original top shell and controller ports leading them to have multiple shells and not optimal for resin printing by print services. Here are the fixed files as well as a top half that can be used with the AVE-HDMI.

The forum has a dark mode.

What would an app do that the current forum doesn't?

You'll likely need to replace that joystick. Joycon joysticks are renowned for drift issues.

Thanks Nold, I'll update the OP.

If you want to donate for one to be scanned I'd be happy to.