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Dm'd you!

I've been working on the αSNES case CAD a little bit. The top IO is all done! The triggers and controls are mostly done, too. I'm using a single flex PCB for each side, with 0.8mm FR4 stiffener to form a poor man's rigid-flex PCB. The flexes will connect to the mainboard via ZIFs. The...

The 5V/1A (5W) boost can handle it easily. Most screens draw about 1 - 1.5W, and four two normal-ish USB devices will only draw an additional 2.5W max. Just don't plug in two HDDs or something.

SPI is only used for color SSD1331 OLEDs. If you want to use a monochrome OLED, it has to be an I2C SSD1306 one. There are SPI SSD1306 monochrome OLEDs, but the code doesn't support those, hence my warning to avoid them.

Unfortunately SSD1351 OLEDs like that one aren't supported. These are the only two OLEDs that do work: 0.96" 128x64 I2C SSD1306 monochrome OLED 0.95" 96x64 SPI SSD1331 full color OLED Potential pitfall to avoid: don't get a SPI SSD1306 OLED. Only I2C SSD1306 OLEDs work.

You need to run the stick and trigger calibration in the menu. This does require the screen to be working so you can see the menu. The Release Notes contain lots of helpful information; I'll copy paste some of the relevant points here. Color and monochrome OLEDs are selectable with GPIO22...

Wow, this is awesome!!! HDMI, BT and Wavebird RX are all uncommon features these days, great to see them included. I love the clear shoulder buttons that match the Classic Controller. And the speaker cutouts + fan grille have some nice shared design language. Excellent work!

We do not, but it's still early enough that scans aren't necessary IMO. Unlike the Wii U, where there was one obviously superior mobo rev, there are SEVEN Super Slim revs and over a dozen revs total. Personally, I'm gonna hold off on sanding til I have a trim strategy locked in. Super glad you...

The Wii U, Xbox, and Xbox 360 have been trimmed. Will the PlayStation 3 be the next power hungry console on the chopping block? The PS3 motherboard is wickedly complex. It makes the Wii U and Xbox 360 look downright basic, and trimming it will be no easy feat. Thankfully, the PS3 has a...

Yep, I plan on forking the GBS Control repository so everyone can use my custom tweaks with their Shinobi 2s, and eventually αSNES once it's open source.

Shinobi Scaler 2 has been tested and released! OP has been updated with the new readme and a link to the GitHub repo. The old design is still available in the shinobi-1 branch.

After playing around with the Tink2X some more, I was pretty dissatisfied with it, for a couple reasons: There's no way to tweak brightness or color saturation You can't make the scanlines more or less intense The output is integer scaled, which leaves large black borders (probably 1/4 of the...

You're using an ATtiny1616, right? Might as well reuse the Thundervolt codebase. @loopj wrote some super clean and easy-to-use I2C routines for the ATtiny, and there are example drivers for regs, temp sensors, and more already in there. It uses Platformio, which integrates right into VS Code...

I don't see a reason to be wary. Mooch's tests on BLF indicate the capacity claims are legit. They're actually optimal for our usecase, because the additional capacity is only accessible at low discharge currents (<2A per cell). Wii portables use little power and usually discharge at 500mA -...

Short update today. One of my Hollywood-2 Wii Minis is nearly ready to trim! Note: when installing AVEflex on a Mini, a single jumper wire is required for VDATA0. Here's the revised dock PCB, incorporating a lower voltage Kawaii supply, the 20x20x6mm fan, and multiple YPbPr pinout fixes...

If you want the absolute best video quality, lowest power consumption, and perfect compatibility across all games, then a Retro GEM Shiny is the answer: Using Retro GEM Shiny as an LCD Driver But it's not cheap, and is challenging to wire up. Other options: MST703-based driver board that...

I hope so too! My old thermal paste was dried up... the new stuff just arrived. I sanded off some of the alumina to hopefully help with heat conduction. I didn't go overboard because I need to keep the rest of the shell non-conductive. Many solder joints are in contact with the insulative...

I wired up USB and controllers today! And also 3D printed some RGB LED plugs which press-fit into place. Since the metal shell will expand as it heats up, they may need to be glued in long term. It works! As expected, things are thermally marginal. I'm still dialing in a stable...

I got a Bambu X1C and did some test prints of the dock shell. Ended up adding a ridge alongside the Kawaii and tweaking the internal mechanics a bit. Then I started working on testing the internal Kawaii PCB! I ordered the wrong size level shifter, so I'm unable to test the addressable...

Sorry to hear that! @Teatimetim had a similar issue and it ended up being a wiring mistake. Gotta be the case here. Some things to check: Triple check the pinout of your controller cable with a continuity meter. Each one has different wire colors, so you can't trust online pics or guides...