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Should I use a 3mm heatsink for my portable to save space or 10mm so it has the same height of my fan and cause the most air flow through the heatsink than over?

Volts and I was on DC

So I carefully tested it with my mutlimeter, not bridging anything, the 2nd pin this one then a spark flew and now my 12v power supply is showing 0.8v (now 1v seems as if it's going back up idk) EDIT: I found another 12v power supply this one doesn't die, but every time i try testing it I hear...

I found some detail pictures online:

Does anyone know a hack for this 5" screen driver board. I want to use 5v instead or 12v. Ginger recommend just trying to put 7.4v straight to where you would plug 12v. I used 9v (since my red board was charging) at the time and it didn't turn on.

Rewired, 1.15v and 3.3v are working perfectly fine, sadly though I'm getting nothing from the 1v and 5v. At least half of them are not working and not all of them.

Right, i checked with continuity and it seems like all is wired of good

For some reason I am getting 11.6v on all my regulators and I don't know why. (Btw I'm using 12v source from the Wii Wal wart)

My body is ready

Would something like using a FSUSB42MUX work?

Could you show a picture of your usb wiring to the board?

8? This is going to be one thicc boi

So I would need to find a 9 pin switch? 3 for the input from the switch, 3 for the input from the Wii/Reg, and 3 for the output to the USB drive. And this switch would need to be able to sustain 5v and 500mA

Okay so what would happen if both 5v from a regulator and 5v from a pc were connected together to the usb? To make sure both 5v isn't going to the usb flash drive to prevent damage to it, I could set a rule to only plug it into the pc once the wii is powered off. Would this work?

If someone wanted to do what JacksonS had for his WiiSP 2.0 with a female micro usb port that you can connect to your computer to edit the usb flash drive inside, would you need to use a custom pcb like he used, or are there other ways? Edit: Would this work?

So I've just been stupid and didn't solder my wire to the correct vias :facepalm: and now it's working, but still in the process of trying to fix the problem, you guys helped point out other problems that would of caused it not to work even with the correct GPU vias.

Board isn't trimmed Yes there is continuity between the solder blob and gnd Yes there is continuity between the input pin and 3.3v The output pin shows 3.376v Yes I know the trace is cut because the pad and the vias the trace is connected to doesn't have continuity when they did before...

Okay so I did the relocation with the u9 (because one of my u10's pins broke off) And it isn't working, it's showing the red and green light when turning on, but my TV shows no signal.

Yeah I was thinking that, just wanted to clarify before soldering down. Also another questions, could someone explain in more detail what trace am I cutting before soldering on the u10