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ok so i went ahead and did that, ground between the regs and wii make continuity, but the ground pin on the input line doesn't make connection with the ground line on my video input, does that make a problem for my video line? EDIT: but yea i was getting voltages out of all the board pins i was...

Well...i tested the board today (just got done with that) and it didn't boot :p although i read the outputs on the custom regulators and those look great. everythings spot on except 3.3 - i get 3.4. although when i hooked up the power to test the unit i noticed the output for the 1.15v isn't...

going to prep the ports for a/v and main power later after i get the voltage readings on these regs. u10 is also soldered in place but I'm still skeptical about the cut trace. if i read the resistors correctly and not like an idiot i should get the voltages spot on (minus 3.3v i got 1.8k) ill...

ok cool that makes things easier. i just now did the u10 swap, but I'm skeptical that i cut the trace properly, the pin that runs the wire on the transistor makes contact after the wire is attached, the back three pins on it also make connection to ground which i assume is normal. i will test...

gonna work on some stuff, should have the finished snake drawing out tomorrow or the following day, so if prints are wanted let me know and ill get some made along with that I'm gonna do this for shockslayer I've owed him this for a few years (just never got around to it) which I'm gonna do on...

performed the trim and made sure to use 1500 grit sanding paper along the edges of the board, but following gmans image for reference keeping the 4th screw post. if i remember correctly someone said that the console ports (av out/power) won't work if the board is still attached. can someone...

whatever. you don't have to take my comments to heart.

i understand that, but you get less benefits with all the extras on the board, like you get a better battery life with custom regs, which was said to not work with the onboard regs - plus no wifi - i don't know, but all i can say is i know nothing about the standard wii - shank is probably...

unless its the one that it already rests on. in which case that shouldn't sit on another sheet.

well heres the front of it now - i need to apply a little bit of epoxy around the buttons to get rid of any gaps. aside from that i need another coat of primer before the final paint job. i asked for help on an audio amp, but i was suggested to build my own so i guess thats that, gotta get a hot...

eww no stick with the guide theres no need for any of that stuff you're leaving on the board.

just waiting for the back half to work on almost got the front smooth its probably gonna stay black and white

that doesn't do anything for me neither did the link i went further around the link you sent and it turns out i had to install two no wifi wads instead of the wifi ones before it made the homebrew channel flip which then lead to iOS 236 to work. i don't understand this stuff at times hardwares...

BUMP i might need a little help going over this again, for some reason i can't figure out the problem I'm getting now, it says iOS36 isn't found in my usb so theres no wifi wads found. using a mac a 4gb sd card and a 32gb usb both lexar brand.

...the line is shown on the thread, look over it again.

You should go over th guide It shows the indicated pin on the Bluetooth module section, its pin 12

So you mean one of the pins on the Bluetooth module is for rewiring the sync button? Edit: ok never mind I went over the guide again and i saw pin 12 I also ordered the other two regulators that I still need, the capacitors cane in though.

Ok well i have to wait about another week Long story short I thought I ordered 4 regs? I only ordered 2 lol So I'll be ordering another 2 maybe tonight? Should be getting the capacitors in a few days I think. Edit: so how are you suppose to sink a wiimote to a wii without the tact switch?

Going to note that one down. But I'm getting something delievered by tonight, so if it's the pcb than I'm safe for this board, but I'll still test out the regs when they get here too. For simple testing purposes like this does the USB port have to be wired? Or would I just get the error message...

I'm assuming you're talking about this chart? Which is what I'm using, but the .05v is what I was looking for. The resistor pack I purchased just doesn't have the exact ones I need, but going over .05 allows me to use less resistors