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I'll go ahead and do that when I get around to doing some soldering. I can even replace those wires completely

I can redo the cart slot wiring at some point. But I might get a desoldering iron so I can remove the remains of the legs that were kept in the vias. But that's gonna suck, I only did it this way cause I've seen it work for gmans n64s. I have some 26awg wire I can use.

Its official. I'm a curse I got proper voltages for 12v and 3.3v along with the traces that have to be reconnected on the cart slot. The front tracers on the board were done with 34 awg magnet wire, but still makes continuity. Have a 2k resistor added to pif8 and 3.3v one thing I'm not sure is...

Thanks I'm liking how things look so far. Gonna grab some tweezers on my way home today to finish the wiring on that thing. And I'm glad you say that, the last time I tried a cart slot bend It came out at an angle so it was crooked and looked terrible lol. My only problem is keeping it at a full...

Taking a break from the Wii portable. Reviving this.

Ok I'll have to pick up some rubbing alcohol and a magnifying glass so I can give the board a better inspection, everythings tiny so it's hard to focus on it lol However the front case half is smooth at this point so I'm getting finer grits as I go along. Not sure how much I'll be working on...

Yea the wire ended up coming off, but I scratched the via with my exacto, tinned it and saw that it was silver. But I dont know how much more sanding I can do on the edges. I'm still getting 8 ohms on 3.3v I also bridged gnd and reset.

I've sanded the board a couple times, before having realized 3.3v was like that. But I haven't connected it to see what u10 was outputting I just got home so i haven't done anything Edit: just went over the power mii lite board detached and only 1v on it is getting a proper reading everything...

I can do that, but I just went over resistance again. I guess I wasn't fully paying attention to 3.3v -- I get 8 ohms... 1v gets 25 ohms and 1.15v gets 40 ohms I'm also gonna shorten the wires a bit more.

Isn't that similar to what poly case does with their enclosures? (Texture-wise) looks good

I'll check the via for 3.3v, the power lines and resistance For the TV I'm just using a CRT Panasonic I think? And that red wire you circled was ground I said I ran out of black wire. I'll also be sure to wire reset to ground

No I didn't know that was a thing they did. I should see about that Edit: I scratched some mask off from the board down the trace a little and checked the via, ended up getting a connection. Is it normal for the ground on the port to make continuity to the composite line, it only happens when...

That thick black wire with the yellow mark is the ground connected to one of the pins on the input line from the original Wii port. I assume the grounds are all the same on the av port. And which pin on the u10 outputs 3.3? I know the pin that doesn't run the wire gets continuity with the 3.3v...

Not done, but getting more details in.

Nice! Super clean

Ok. So I went over the board some more, I am getting around 3.2v, .9v and 1.10v when the powermii lite board is hooked up, when I disconnect it the 1.15v line reads around 25 ohms. However, I still don't get any video signal (no USB error screen) should I solder the usb port? Or would that make...

Ok. I dont think I sanded the edges as well as I thought? I was reading the multimeter wrong, I remember getting .007/.008 ohms thinking that was 7 or 8 ohms? Well tonight I did some more and now I'm getting 30.2 ish ohms. Sounds more reasonable if I'm not mistaken, anyhow I'll be able to test...

Here's a pic of the board with the case in it's current state the case should look nice but i still need a decent amount of work left all together. Now I'm kinda confused, I had sanded the edges more, I feel like I noticed a small change on the edges afterwards, now I then read the resistance...

So I disconnected the regs to my board. Found that 1.15v is read at 7 ohms, so I should sand the edges more?

so wait disconnect the regs to the wii and check for continuity with ground and the output lines on the wii? or take the whole component off the board? I'm assuming you're talking about the first option ill be sure to do this when i get off work today EDIT: i forgot to mention that it did the...