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The original post mentions presenting an "album of completed projects". Should there be worklogs and documentation of those or just pictures?

Volume is usually controlled by GND but Sync uses 3.3v, so I'd like to know, how did you put them both in one button?

But the banners are quality. Love them.

Instructions said to reply here so I'm doing that now. I'm gonna build... something.

I guess this is happening now. I just hope I can churn out a system between when school ends and the deadline.

Check that you still have a resistance reading between the connector and the GPU vias. Sometimes the metal contacts on the resistors break off slightly and you can't really see it.

I recommend cutting the female wifi connector out of a Wii board and using that to rewire the wifi module. It is easier than wiring straight to the module, doesn't take much space, and allows you to switch out the modules if needed. That of course will only work if you haven't removed the male...

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/PTH08080WAH/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt6Q9lZSPl3Re%2fAmFvrfWYDVf3Fgt5X1aE%3d http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?keywords=pth08080wah These two offer similar prices. Mouser has higher shipping costs, I believe.

He's probably referring to getting DVI and HDMI from the Wii. I wired up a GameCube AVE using this information and got a black and white garbled image: This doesn't really mean anything because I was kind of using an educated guess as to where each data pin should go, but it's cool. I had to...

You're right, I was just commenting on how I wish there were a better interface for the rebooting for GC games and such.

I can't say I care about the MX's power functions, but there are apps that don't work on the Wii due to the MX chip's absence, right? That seems to be the case for me, which is what concerns me. About the disc drive, not having it poses problems or inconveniences, even using everything we have...

I understand it's a bit much to cover different cuts with the Wii's numerous revisions and relocations, but I can't help but feel like the Wii's actual Wii functionality is being glossed over by focusing on the smallest cut. I think ways to keep the MX chip and disc drive should at least be...

They did. I just used the ones suggested on the data sheet. It was fixed when I raised the voltages because they were initially too low by my own mistake.

I'd like to see the guide cover some less extreme cuts that retain full or most Wii functionality, as in keeping the MX chip and/or disc drive connector. Just a suggestion.

While the system was on, both 1v and 1.15v read about 0.95v, because the voltages drop with those custom regs. When they weren't attached to the system, they read 1.000v and 1.015v (it was an accident that I made it 1.015v instead of 1.15v).

I'm using custom regulators and, yes, voltages were too low. They had to be much higher.

I've done the "OMGWTF" trim and I get a bunch of static on the screen when I boot the homebrew channel. I feel like it's a power issue, but I want to know if anyone else encounters this.

I love your use of connectors on the motherboard. It's a smart idea to make things easier for yourself. Have you tried using a different FFC cable on your Wasp? Like one from a real Wii? It seems like those ones that come with the Wasp sometimes stop working.

I don't think there's a way to have the Wii set up to autoboot to both emuNAND and sysNAND, and autobooting is kind of necessary if you don't want to navigate the system menu.

Yes, and I just was asking SS what he intends to do. I don't think GameCube games work through UNEEK or SNEEK emuNAND, at least not yet.