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The pins do come out of the PTH08080 if you desolder them, but the ground pin takes a lot of heat to remove.

I really wanted to wire a Wiikey from the beginning. Obviously a software fix is easier, but this is more fun.

Thanks for the love and support. It's much appreciated.

I am impatient and didn't want to mess with software fixes for my lack of a DVD drive, so I wired a Wiikey that I had sitting around instead. I cut it nearly as small as I could since there isn't a lot of free space in this portable. I had to hardwire a microSD card too since it requires some...

I have owned the first one (Weller Analog Soldering Station) and it was great for about a year until the heating element died. It has a nice, very flexible cable attaching the iron to the station.

If you have two pieces of plastic touching each other, super glue works very well. It can fill small gaps as well. If it's a larger gap, one thing you could use is Bondo. It's not extremely sturdy, though.

For an audio amplifier, I would recommend the PAM8803. It uses two buttons for volume control. You can get one with speakers here, but the speakers are pretty large. I think the GameCube component cable is way overpriced, so if you want the best quality video, maybe you should wait for the...

I think if it's not a Nintendo-brand controller, you have to plug it in through USB and download the proper configurations. Here are some configurations that have been written.

That's a good suggestion but I chose not to bother with that because Nintendont allows you to use Bluetooth controllers as GameCube controllers.

Yes, a rudimentary one. When the power switch is in the "Off" position, you can plug in the Wii 12v adapter to play off external power while charging the batteries. I tested the batteries and they lasted for 4 hours and 20 minutes in a GameCube game. That's about right since it draws around 1.5...

This is my first Wii portable system. I tried to make it very "Wii" by painting it all white and including some Wii remote buttons and player LEDs. Its dimensions are 176 mm x 94 mm x 29 mm. These are the highlighted features: - Vacuum formed case, all hand crafted - An internal Wii remote...

I found a couple other driver boards. This one is for 7", 8", and 9" screens. This one is for 5" screens. This one also supports a 6.5" screen.

I'm sure a microcontroller would do it, but as for making a transistor-based circuit, I don't know.

I believe the wired Wii remotes have an RF cable attached:

Thanks, guys. I appreciate the feedback. I just tested the battery life and it lasted about 4 hours and 20 minutes. It's drawing about 1.5 amps at 7.4v in a GameCube game. I still can't run Wii games because emuNAND is giving me issues.

One last look at the internals before closing it. I installed WiFi antennas under the ABXY buttons and D-pad buttons. In the center of the motherboard is a circuit that toggles component vs. composite video with the press of a button (it's the black button near the ABXY buttons). I also added...

For all the ports and switches on the top of the system, I mounted everything on one piece of board. It really helps keep everything in one place because having an HDMI cable, a Wii 12v adapter, and a battery charger plugged in all at once can provide a lot of force. I took the glue off the 12v...

I've been looking at Wii remote boards and I believe the IR camera communicates through I2C. It appears to work as a slave along with the extension port. As for the resistive touch screen, I've seen generic USB driver boards for them, but the touch panel could probably be wired directly to a...

It was originally my plan to do that, but I think I'm going to 3D print a version and make a mold of that. There are just a few things I want to tweak.

Thanks, that's quite a complement! I'm glad it turned out well.