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You can take off the electrolytic capacitor at the top right and make that whole right edge flush. You can probably cut a little more on the top edge, but eventually you'll cut into the NAND data lines and that would need to be rewired.

You can desolder them if you want. I would not recommend that because the boards make it less likely that you'll break off the battery tabs, as he said.

Yes, that's right.

The 3.3v power line on your controller is probably not connected. The controller can be power through only the data line when you're in the BIOS menu, but not in-game. The dedicated 3.3v line needs to be connected.

It looks super comfortable and I really like that. I'm assuming you are getting audio out of the pre-amp because you mentioned 5v relocation. Try wiring to these pins on the right of the AVE chip (the ones labelled Audio L and Audio R). If it works, your audio will be quieter. You might need to...

That's totally fine. The voltages can be a fair amount above or below the set-point without noticeable consequence.

Either place is fine. They are connected through the board so there's really no difference either way.

Yes, as long as you don't plan on drawing more current than 3A. With a Wii, I'm sure you won't.

These are the ones I use. They can be found on eBay too but you should make sure they're genuine if you find them on eBay.

I've wanted to do this, but I don't think I could have done it that well! That is something I would definitely buy.

In addition, the PAM8403 is higher wattage, so it requires slightly larger speakers.

I'm going to be assembling a few more in the coming weeks, so eventually I'll make a thread in the Trading Area!

The 8-pin chip is a PIC microcontroller that communicates via I2C to control volume. The headphone and speaker volume can be controlled independently so it's kind of customizable in that way. The main IC is a headphone/speaker amp combo from TI that comes in a QFN package. Most other low-wattage...

There must be a protection circuit between the batteries and the charger/load. That's just required so the batteries aren't overcharged or fully discharged, since that can be dangerous with lithium ion batteries. So anything connected to the batteries should go through a protection circuit.

NO. That sucks, mine gave up on me too at one point. But that doesn't devalue your work at all, it's still going to turn out great.

This is a small audio amp made for small portables. The circuit board is 21 mm X 24 mm. I got them from OSHpark and hand-soldered all the components. This is the ideal amp for me since I can never find a good, low-wattage amp to buy for my projects. Technical features: - 2W stereo speaker...

The deadline will just have to wait.

If the hole you want to make is large enough, a Dremel with a small cutting makes good straight cuts. You can smooth out the cuts with a flat file.

Those controller wires are routed so wonderfully. I've never had those mini-360 buck regulators, but I would bet they are pretty noisy since they're cheap and just... not made by TI.

I love all of it. The perfect 3D printed parts make me so happy.