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3DS speakers should probably have under 1W delivered to them, so 15W is way too much. You may be better off with some generic 1W speakers that can take a little more power than 3DS speakers. It would be a lot easier to buy a GC+ and not bother with 3rd party controllers. You can use 3DS sliders...

PS3 joysticks have 4 pins on each axis instead of 3 pins like most joysticks. As far as I know, the PS3 joysticks can still be used for a Wii if you wire to the correct 3 pins. EDIT: Apparently some PS3 joysticks do have 3 pins. I'm not sure which you're wanting to use.

Super Mario Sunshine. On the file select screen, move to the right and select the "stereo audio" cloud. It'll play audio out of the corresponding speaker on the screen.

You backlight isn't working, as you said. I'm not familiar with that board so I don't know where the backlight step-up regulator is or how to troubleshoot it. But I have had this issue once because the part of the LCD flex cable carrying power for the backlight broke. Check your LCD's flex...

That looks like it takes LVDS, not any kind of analog video input, so I'd say no. It would be a lot more work than using any of the generic composite video LCDs on eBay and similar sites.

The red light not working doesn't necessarily mean it's broken. Sometimes the red light stops working while the Wii itself still works, though I'm not sure why.

Yes, you should be able to swap the boards. I looked up the datasheet for the LCD attached to the small board and it appears to have the exact same pinout needed for the other board you're using. The only thing I'm not sure about is if the small board will provide the right clock speed for the...

I find magnet wire to be best for data transfer because it can't carry much current, but it's much thinner than other insulated wire of the same gauge. I use 38 gauge and it can fit through all the vias on a Wii or GC motherboard, so that's very convenient.

I've never seen that issue, but it looks to me like one of the edges of the LCD was damaged and now can't change color. And I have to say I love your username and avatar.

These are the best ones I've used. They're made by ALPS, and every ALPS switch I've used is fantastic.

I've had games freeze due to bad Wasp wiring, so I think you may need to rewire. I guess you're not using custom regulators, but if you are, make sure the voltages aren't too low.

No, the 2 clock battery pins will be unaffected.

This took literally 30 minutes. I figure knowing where the CLK pin is may help with routing wires correctly (as it does with the Wii's digital video) because WiFi wiring can be an issue sometimes.

I haven't seen this posted here yet, so I made a complete pinout for the Wii's WiFi module. It has 6 primary data lines, as we know, and 2 unused GPIO pins. It communicates via SDIO - 4 data lines, 1 clock line, and 1 command line. The 1.8v is not an input, but more of an output for reference...

The IC is a PIC18F25K22. Power goes to pin 20 (VDD) and ground goes to pin 19 (VSS).

I like that DIY method of wiring to the FFC connector. I would've used that if I'd ever thought of it.

It seems weird to see the GaemCube ranked low because it's been so popular, but it really is obsolete like you said.

Use flux if you're absorbing solder with a solder braid.

I've done some stuff, but i can't exactly drive an LCD with a video input source.

Yes, that happens when a disc drive is not connected.