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This is all really exciting! I was taking a jab at this earlier with a USB compatible PIC microcontroller, but I never got as far as you have. I don't really have enough knowledge of USB to carry out the whole task anyway. I don't remember if it supports both IN and OUT on a single endpoint, but...

I've never done it, but I believe you should be able to do it if you follow the pinout on the left side. The pin numbers between the Wii and GameCube are basically reversed.

I think the PTH08080 is generally much better than other regulators you might find at the same size, as in it's more efficient and produces less noise. It also offers more current than the second one you linked. That other one may not be able to deliver enough current to some of the voltage...

Unfortunately, the Wii's regulators (the ones that bring 12v down to 5v, 3,3v, 1.15v, and 1v) won't function on any voltage lower than around 10v. That why you have to use your own custom regulators for each voltage line if you want to use a battery setup lower than 10v. People usually use one...

The first thing I'd do is check for voltages where I expect to see them.

I don't know, but the circuitry looks simpler than that of the PTH08080WAH, so I'm inclined to believe it'll produce more noise or something along those lines.

The white paint came out really nicely on this one. I'm glad to see it turned out well.

Sure, I should have more available soon. You can view the prices here.

I had that amp once and the one I got wasn't even stereo. It mixed the stereo input to a mono output.

It just means that the Wii isn't emulating GameCube games when it plays them; it's playing them much the same way the GameCube does. I use a Dremel with a cutting wheel for boards. It works well for boards and plastic, but it might leave a rough edge on plastic since it can melt the plastic. I...

Thanks! I'm out of boards for now. I hope to have more within 2 weeks.

Are you sure the voltage lines read at least 1v and 1.15v while the system is on? I've had plenty of issues similar to that because my voltages were a bit too low. I had to set them fairly high since those TI regulators drop in voltage under a load.

The Wasp is smaller. That makes it better in my opinion.

It's $5 more to ship outside of the US. You can see the prices listed near the middle of the post.

Check out some OSHPark projects if you want to get some inspiration for a project of your own.

Hi! I've designed a custom audio amplifier for portables that works with both speakers and headphones. It's optimized to have great volume range on a GameCube or Wii. Note: I'm not selling these anymore, but you can PM me for information if you want to build your own. Here is the board. Its...

Are you referring to using a classic controller connected to a GC controller data line? That wouldn't work because they have different data protocols.

I use Autodesk Inventor, which you can get for free as a student for a limited time, as mentioned above. It works well and I think it's pretty intuitive.

9A or even 5A seems a little overkill.

Those LCDs show white by default if they're powered but not getting the correct signals from the driver board. It's not likely, but it's a possibility the driver board is damaged or the FFC cable is loose.