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I forgot to say that when I turning on the PSUs, the CPU and GPU starts heating a little (like when the console it's working) (I've 110% cheched the video input of my monitor and it's working)

Here's my wiring. Sorry for mixed colors, but I tried to identify every cable I'm using composite video with a 12v car monitor (supplied by the same PC power supply with 3.3v)

Yes, there was a solder blob, thanks I've already did a reflow on AVE and NAND pins, after I cleaned the board using flux remover, isopropyl alcohol and blasted air below components using a compressor BUUUUT, still not working

I've already trimmed 2 boards: -RVK-CPU-01 -RVL-CPU-40 I started to work with the CPU-40 because I thought that the resistances on the RVK were wrong (I trimmed too close of the red line) I trimmed the board first by removing USB and Video areas (rectangle shaped), and the console was working...

Is patched allready when you install it? Or you have to install something else?

UPDATE!!!! I trimmed the board through the red lines, and it's working. Hope this info be useful for newbies like me in wii portables Now I must solder USB ports, also relocate bluetooth and video outputs

I know that, also I saw the Shank’s Super Thread and is most likely safe to cut the layers on those parts. I’m using a 12v monitor and I prefer to keep disc drive board and wii games as well

Is there a way to relocate the disc drive driver board after doing an OMGWTF cut? I'm using a RVL-CPU-40 board

Hey pals! Does anyone know if I can cut my mainboard trough these red lines and still be able to use the board without custom regulators? In case you couldn't see the board version, It's RVL-CPU-40

I’ll continue that project later. I’be found a RVL-CPU40 console for 7$ us

[I speak spanish, hope you can understand me] I have 500ohm measuring from 3.3v to GND, every other measuring is closer to the resistance tables on the forum. I’ve checked the board edges with the microscope and the layers aren’t making contact. I’ve checked every capacitor onboard as well and...

I have a not working omgwtf trim with every component in good state, maybe I should save it for this trim further

I only tried to play wii U on car and succesfully made it using a step-up regulator

Once I made a "portable wii" like you with a full 6 layered motherboard. I was playing Smash Brawl, with a 12V screen connected with full brightness and multimeter measured 1.27A max

I made a portable console with full motherboard before. I was using an AC to DC power supply. Unfortunately I only measured 1.27A max with a 12V screen connected and my board was 6 layered