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Check out my first test run! Still got a couple things that need tidying up (the screen bezel) and right dpad is giving me trouble... Might need to redo the solder joints.

Resolution of the screen is 320x240 so doesn't take a lot of processing power off the pis CPU. I'm still experimenting with DIVISOR settings in my custom ILI9341 drivers to get smooth frame rate. As for the triggers I just used another unpopulated PCB board and soldered Adafruit silicone...

I finally figured out the trigger dilemma I've been facing. I 3D printed some little triggers and cut holes in the back (don't mind the sharpie marks) I added USB C for data to the pi for adding roms and using external peripherals (this does not charge the cells though. I intentionally did not...

I absolutely love it! Will you be making a mirror image of the model for the right handed individuals? Or perhaps make an ambidextrous unit and toggle switch to set the hand? As for the screen. I just went through the pain of getting the SPI interface working... Today.... If you're using the...

I can confirm that using the MAX98357 chip and following this YouTube video worked first try. I am just using it as is because RetroPie has built in audio controls in the menu.

That's good to know. I would have though blowing cool air in, over the heat sinks, then out the exhaust would have made at least a marginal difference but I will 100% take your word.

I found I wasn't completely satisfied with my thermals after extended sessions, just using the Digi key heat syncs. I managed to lower my temps down to 42-48C while gaming for 1-2 hours at a time by placing some of these between my CPU/GPU and the heat syncs. You'll need to remove the white...

Did you remove the blue film on the heat sinks? Those are just to protect the adhesive thermal pads. If those are not removed that will definitely be the source of your Wii running hot.

USB compatibility is a crapshoot unless it's one that the community, through trial and error and rigorous testing, has deemed compatible. Especially once you get into trying to load Wii games. I'd recommend popping over to the RVLoader F.A.Q. page and see if you can get one of the recommended...

After doing some research I decided to go with the MAX98357. I got a 4 pack of on amazon for like 11$. They're meant to be connected to a speaker, but lack a headphone jack. I don't really need a headphone jack for my project but I can always add one in the future. I'll let you know when I...

If you're going to use the little screen you'll need to wire some buttons to switch input to AV. it will not automatically detect and switch input from VGA to AV1 or AV2. You can also solder a wire to ground on the screen and touch each contact K1-K5 to activate them. Personally I'd just...

Finally got a few hours to myself this weekend and got the controller board put together. I got everything to line up pretty well with some generic unpopulated PCB board, a Dremel, and my drill press. The reason I have 2 buttons for the large button opening is because of how I have the...

Enabling the VGA patch does not disable composite video. Just remove the 3.3v jumper from MODE and it will output AV/composite again.

I'd recommend using 2 batteries, charged up, even for testing. That way we can officially rule out issues with providing the PMS enough power. Time for a silly question from me. When you installed RVLoader. Did you enable the VGA patch? If not, it won't output VGA even when you short the MODE...

It's hard to tell once we try and zoom in on the photo. The way that component is sitting crooked on the board leads me to believe that the component is sitting on a blob of solder that bridges the two connections/shorts it anyways. Can you post a higher res pic? if you're using a cell phone...

Did you test the Wii trim and confirm it boots prior to (mostly) fully assembling it? As for it dying after being powered on briefly, are you using only 1 battery? What is that battery's voltage? Nominal voltage is 3.6-3.7v I'd highly recommend putting Kapton tape anywhere that there is...

Before attempting to resolder the very delicate vias. I would highly recommend getting some high quality flux. Anything by Kester is amazing. It's on Amazon. Apply lots of flux to the U10 joint, and try reflowing it briefly. You'll notice the flux makes the joint nice and uniform and shiny...

You should indeed get a failure screen stating that RVLoader could not initialize the FAT32 device. As for your voltage ratings. Those ratings are far too low to properly boot the Wii. You want to see a 5 percent drop max. The voltage drop is likely an issue of cold solder joints. Some of...

That is just about one of the neatest things I've seen in a while. Projects that push you to learn new things are the most satisfying in the end. Congrats on the end result!

Screen came in the mail today and I threw together a mock up after work, with some hot glue and loose wires. Just to get you guys stoked!