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Keep in mind that when taking measurements on your 3.3v line with the PMS and battery connected it will show below 10ohms. Mine showed 4ohms when measured, but it's not a short.

There's several things that could prevent the board from booting. You stated that you got zero readings when checking the 3.3v rail against ground? Have you tried measuring that again to rule out a short? Did you place tape over the CPU/GPU before cutting the board? I'm also seeing a lot of...

The transplant was a success! After a few weeks of playing games on this. Gameboy advance emulation was decent, but the occasional hang ups or crashes was becoming increasingly annoying. I managed to find a raspberry pi zero 2w on eBay, brand new, for 45$. Much better than what they're...

That's freaking SWEEEET! Glad I could help out another hobbyist. I can't wait to see this thing progress.

It's very possible the port itself could be damaged. You could try wiring up a second one at this point. Have you measured voltage on RA1 and the GameCube port to ensure you have the full 3.3v? If you have < 3.15v or less than 5 percent of the full voltage it could easily cause problems with...

Wiring on the port looks good. Did you sand the board of the controller port after cutting it? I'd check resistances values against all the pins to make sure there isn't a short on the controller port itself. I'd also check the voltage on the controller port to ensure it's getting the full...

Can you upload a picture of the GameCube controller port wiring? For bench testing I use an old controller port/board from a trimmed Wii and wire 3.3v, GND, and data to the Wii board.

Yeah these boards need a good ol' scrubbin for sure. I agree, definitely no downside to recapping all the boards. Especially at over 40 years old. Should improve a lot of things even if it doesn't resolve the wavy issue. I'll see about getting a replacement kit on order.

Phew it was a long day of hauling this thing around but it was worth it. It's about 225 pounds. Getting it up some stairs was.... Fun. After trying to power it on. I confirmed it was dead. I checked the obvious thing first, fuses. Found one of the main fuses had some nasty oxidation on one of...

You have way too much exposed wire on almost all of these connections. Something is very likely to short when you button it up later. You only need a few mm of exposed and tinned wire to make a connection to a PCB. I can sense @Stitches getting hives. A lot of these connections look to be "cold...

It's got the original tube panel, but the whole system isn't working. At this moment can't tell if the CRT is shot or not. I'm gonna start with replacing the power supply, and taking some resistance checks on everything, then seeing if I can get it to boot. I'm picking up the cabinet Tuesday...

Hahahaha I totally was only going to do that as a last resort. I'll try my best to get a CRT panel of course. Are CRTs easy to come by in Australia? Yeah the raspberry pi thing is the ultimate last resort just so the cabinet doesn't go unused. I'm sure with your help I can get it working!

I've been in the market for an old fixer upper to rebuild on the weekends. For quite a while now. I liked the idea of getting a arcade1up cabinet from best buy but I'm 6'4" and need a full size cabinet to game on. My dad helped me track down an original Donkey Kong cabinet with all the panels...

Coming from you, that genuinely means a lot. Thank you.

Alright I think this is nearing done. The only possible thing I could think of adding would be an analog volume wheel. Any ideas? I made a CTIA to OMTP call inverter cable so now I can use headphones, and composite video cable from 1 headphone port. I upgraded the battery control board so I...

Composite video out has been a fun little side adventure. Apparently not only are there TS, TRS, TRRS 3.5mm jacks, but there's also CTIA and OMTP wiring methods for the TRRS jack. The difference between the two being that video and ground swap connections.. WHY?!?!? This makes having a plug...

Your model looks amazing. I'm really digging it so far. I can't believe that 3D print turned out that fantastic without supports enabled! Looking forward to seeing more development

I'm pretty much nearing completion. I 3d printed a much nicer looking screen bezel and I trimmed the actual screen driver board with a diamond rotary tool to get it to fit nicely inside the nugget. Here's a photo of the final placement of the boards: At this point the last thing I am going to...

it's very gorgeous. I am absolutely in love with that clear coat. How did you get such fantastic results? what clear coat did you use? I tried using rust-oleum universal clear coat and it stayed tacky forever, even after letting it dry for a week.

I could immediately hear the PS1 intro sound blasting in my head when I saw the image of it posting on that screen. Wow does that image look absolutely crisp. I cannot wait to see your progress on this!