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Somehow the battery voltage is just being passed through the 3.3v regulator without adjustment. Did you get any errors when programming the board? Also to answer your question, the button pad is just to allow a momentary tact switch to toggle the PMS on and off

You can scratch the soldermask off the trace that feeds the pad and solder to that spot. Also do you have a second cell on hand to wire up? Sometimes Wiis won't boot with only one cell connected

Do you have a second cell on hand to wire up? Sometimes Wiis won't boot with only one cell connected

Wiis can just randomly die during trimming sometimes. We have no idea why, the surgery just fails. Getting a replacement Wii would be the simplest option

And he gave you the best colour too! I've wanted an emerald blue one for ages but they're really annoying to get down here >.>

STEP files are the easiest to modify as they are CAD compliant and not tesselated. They're larger than STL files sometimes, but they can be zipped

Unless you have other cells to test with, it sounds like your PMS has died.

3.45v would be the current battery voltage. Do you have another DC power supply to use to test charging? Preferably a 12v one

Charge is the correct pad to connect the power supply positive to. If it isn't charging the cells at all, there's a problem. Most likely either with the PMS or the cells

Delicious

Yeah you will need the Guiformat program for large cards/drives. The site is old af, but it's a safe download we all use it

Both. I remembered that only the 1.25v line draws meaningful current because I read it in The PS2 Trimming Guide. It has the current draw figures for each voltage line in the advanced trim section

In a portable, all grounds are connected together to form a contiguous path of return. This means you can ground perpherals like the screen, GC+, or audio amp basically anywhere that is convenient for your build. There isn't really a right or wrong location. The same is true for voltage. You...

To expand on Legend's explanation, the 1.75v, 2.5v, and 3.5v lines each use around 0.1A of peak current. With that tiny power draw, the thermal inefficiency of using linear regulators (which are currently nigh required for their stability) are negligible. If a perfectly stable switching reg was...

Yeah resin is a bit fragile, no way around that sadly. I like the two tone appearance that the pale ports provide. Very nice build!

That is glorious

If I remember correctly 9V 3A and 12V 3A are good presets if you arent using a PD module

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. The nike swoosh is in a safe area, nothing important there for it to hit. That inside corner you've done in the trim gives me hives, but afaik in that spot the only problem it could cause would be a voltage short, and the system boots so that's not it................ How long...

Can confirm, the Electron Analog is your best option. No percieveable latency, small, and power efficient.