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True. I ripped off the composite video pad trying to get another problem fixed. I don't know what a sense pin is in terms of video so you might be onto something. If you are talking about the mode pin to 3.3v I'm going to get on that right now

Cause this was before the video also died. There's no video, no bluetooth, and voltages all read normal. Checked U10 and that's at 3.3v. I'm also confused. Hooked up analog audio and closed both jumpers and ended up getting no sound when powering on. Portablizemii has a very distinct start up...

Nope. Didn't install the patches on this cursed wii. Just using Component cause I composite ain't working right and YPbPr was the only thing giving me any sort of progress. It was in black and white. Also I going to assume that the power is fine but the bluetooth dying out of nowhere has me...

This is my supervillain origin story. I cleaned up the board, backtracked to the point where I lost Bluetooth, switched to 22 Awg wire. I don't know anymore. Reflowed the joints, resoldered and resoldered the joints, charged the batteries. I don't know what's happening anymore. Now I know 3.3v...

I meant 8k ohms,as in big ohms, but never mind that. This worked before. Somehow. I believe we are in different time zones so give me a sec to remove some wires. Edit: removed some wires to the Uamp as they just got in the way. Also to add more info. The Wii was working perfectly fine before...

I'm actually stuck this time. Lots of things happened and going through a whole adventure I had many problems and fixes to those problems but right now I have a problem that needs a little direction. So I can confirm that the wii somehow worked before, Bluetooth and all, but when suddenly it...

I use PLA for cases. Make sure bed is leveled. More than half the problems I encountered was the bed leveling. The slower the print, the stronger it gets. At least that's what I've gotten so far. Hatchbox has been by far the best brand I got from Amazon, second is this right here for some...

You know what? Get this. Complete game changer. Then watch Teaching tech's channel for information and installation here. Good luck homie.

Ever see a grown man cry?

So glad nobody else had to deal with melted rubber. So the fire hazard I was talking about ended up being Thermal Runaway where temp somehow gets trapped and exponentially increases. Luckily I pulled the plug when it started to smell and I just had some rubber goop to clean up. From other videos...

I'll be completely honest. DO NOT get the Ender 3 pro. I successfully printed out a couple of cases but, not only did I have to assemble the entire thing, I also had to purchase several upgrades so it does not become a fire hazard while printing. In case you were wondering, aside from the 3d...

Putting up U-Amp and GC+ in the downtime. Would connecting all the GND wires from all the button and turning them into one gigantic super wire do bad things to the wii? Of course, connected to the GND on the wii. Now the U-Amp questions, if I DO NOT want i2c/sexy audio I would connect exactly...

Yes... Parallel... Thank you for confirming that... That's where the B+ are all connected with each other and all the B- are also connected with each other to extend the capacity but keep the same voltage. It makes sense now that my second PMS is dead. Just to also confirm, series is when...

Thank you very much. I was thinking about whether to hook them up either series or parallel. I was looking through work logs and most of them have a little part of the battery obscured so I wanted to know how you people do it.... so I don't fry another PMS...

Without going to details... How do you guys normally wire your batteries? B+ is the smaller circle side and B- is the flat one, but B- is connected GND on the PMS right?

I'm going to work on the GC+ and the controls now. All I need are data cables right? I'm either going to use the 28 gauge or the 34 gauge. Like the title suggests, can someone check my work so far? Waiting for a new PMS is going to take awhile and I'm obviously going to shorten the cables, but...

Well. It was just one thing. This is a big deal to me. I spent all night looking up chips and learning all about resistors and it was really just an inductor. Now I know that the screen works and I'm a happy camper. Also jefflongo. The guide I was thinking of ended up being in the guide hub. I...

Damn, you keep presenting me with more options. So my first gut reaction is to find and remove this 5v regulator but in your opinion, which one would be better? Removing inductor or regulator? I feel like they both do the same thing.

Okay, I took a look at a whole bunch of cleaner looking worklogs and self-confidence aside, it looks like in order to mod the 5v from the board, I have to remove only one component from the board and it'll be ready to go from that pad to the 5v right? I see it in other worklogs but also I know I...

Alright now I really feel annoying. So while I wait for the new PMS, I thought I would finish hooking most of the grunt work together and see if miracles can happen. I know for a fact that I saw a guide on this forum with someone using this exact screen. My question is, can someone help me...