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Testing bluetooth sync in Priiloader is something that isn't often suggested because most people don't know it's an option. This and much other essential information will be added to an official omnibus thread later this year after I finish moving house. The difficulties you've had as a result...

Well you're certainly not crazy, you did everything correctly up until you attempted to install additional CIOS. RVLoader uses specific modified versions of essential opensource homebrew and has a custom framework that handles everything that you would normally use traditional CIOS for, so...

Unfortunately that's just kinda how this hobby has always been. What guides we have are basic frameworks to hold essential information, and it's up to each maker to extrapolate from there. The closest thing to a "step by step" guide is the old G-Boy kit assembly manual in the Manuals section in...

The cap you lost is a 100nf ceramic and the resistor is 75ohms. I don't know what size they are though, you'll have to measure the neighbouring ones and check the SMT sizing chart. Video output likely won't work in general until they are replaced. If you still have the removed section of...

All looks good aside from that 1.8v to GND short. Like 1.15v, 1.8v only exists in a very small area. Specifically around the RAM and AVE chips, so with any luck this will be easier to find than the previous short. On the top and bottom faces, the green marked spots are the only 1.8v surface...

This will be useful!

Hard part out of the way!

Eugh.......... dirty emulation............................. I am interested to see how this works though. Good luck!

Good luck! Honestly as far as Omega projects go, this is a very tame setback. Wesk can tell you, perfectly functional trims will just magically become paperweights overnight. It's 50% luck 50% skill 50% raw stubbornness. You will kill many more chips before this is done, but it will be worth it...

Can you not necro threads that are more dead than Margaret Thatcher? kthx

Honestly this one is a toughy. The 1.15v voltage traces and vias only exist in a very small part of the motherboard. I have circled that portion in red, the blue dots are 1.15v locations. Top PCB face: Bottom PCB face: The short is somewhere in that circle. If you can post some clear photos...

You can try that, yeah. Just be very careful to not rip up the pads when doing it

Those readings look much closer to the expected range. Still a 1.15v short to GND somewhere though................

The trim edge looks clean, but yeah that flux blob might have a solder wisp in it. Can you clean the flux off with some isopropyl alcohol and make sure to remove any blobs or wisps? Correct. Black probe goes on the location in the column, red probe goes on the location in the top row.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. Everything aside from the 1.15v to GND short looks acceptable. I guess we need to find that short. Fortunately there aren't many places that 1.15v can easily find GND. First we should check the edge of the trim right below the big 1.15v capacitor. Can you...

You have a short somewhere on the 1.15v line. 3.3v looks fine, so the U10 relocation is good and NAND flex is probably good. Can you complete the table by measuring the resistance between each voltage rail and the other voltage rails? Just for posterity while I try to figure out how tf 1.15v is...

When you do the resistance check you must first disconnect the PMS from the Wii. If it's still wired in, it will skew the readings. Use the 20k ohm setting for 3.3v and 2000 ohm for everything else. Ignore continuity, it's irrelevant here so long as no resistance is below 10 ohms. Use this...

You can indeed. MX chips, wifi modules, BT modules, and disc drives are all intercompatible with all Wii revisions aside from the Mini

This has been a weird troubleshoot, but success is success! Well done

Are your voltages all reading as expected? Also, when you LMAO Bugged your U10, did you check that you hadn't shorted 3.3v to GND? There's a 3.3v via right under the U10 in that spot