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Any latching slide switch with a matching footprint will work. The Ashida uses a 3 pole through-hole switch with solder tab anchors, so the SMT one that you linked won't fit.

I didn't know he moved so many things. It'd be a lot of hand wiring, but still doable with purpose designed mounts

Some Riivolution mods can be packed into an ISO/WBFS by the ISO tool, but not all work. You'd have to try and find out. https://github.com/Asu-chan/RiivolutionIsoBuilder

All of them up to 1000 grit with wet sanding for best results. Make sure to get waterproof sandpaper or it'll fall apart like a tissue

You could take some measurements and design a little printable frame to glue into the case, or remove the bottom face from the Ashida STL files to grab its part frame directly and print that

wiimfi has been done I believe, but so far I don't know of anyone who has successfully bypassed the current CTGP-R disc requirement. You can play the older version that is ISO compatible, but that's it afaik unless you wire in a FFC connector to run the disc drive externally for setup and updates.

The V1 versions of most of the boards were open sourced so people could make their own, so he sells adjusted versions of the V1 PMS and GC+. The current 4layertech V2 and V3s are closed source for the present

Ah that might cause you some headache later. Ohkin's injection moulded shells are a modified version of Wesk's original design and are designed to fit ohkin's boards rather than 4layertech's. I *think* the top shell is mostly the same and *should* fit the same screen and controller PCB, but the...

Good luck!

Hard to see differences properly with the white filament. It hides imperfections well

When you say it's shorted, does the ohm reading come up as single digits, or do you get a 25+ohm reading and your multimeter is beeping? Also your board is very dirty. I see many deposits of flux and oxide that could be hiding shorts. I'd give your board a good clean with isopropyl alcohol and...

So long as the USB drive is formatted correctly and contains the RVLoader files in the correct arrangement, any compatible drive *should* just work. Did the trimmed Wii work as expected before you lost the original drive? Got any photos of the trimmed Wii and its wiring?

In RVLoader's settings, did you change the PMS power on behaviour from a push button to a latching switch? Also have you made sure that the power button on the PD module is not fused shut or somehow being pressed by poor case fitment?

This is shaping up to be a very aesthetic unit

Priiloader is a sort of CIOS module injector that interacts with and hijacks the sysmenu boot sequence, so yeah mostly likely. RVLoader uses a very specific version that has been heavily modified, alongside RVLoader's own IOS injections, so if any stock version of Priiloader is installed over...

So long as the CIOS is only in non-system slots, like 249 and 250, it's fine. It's only replacing stock IOS modules with CIOS that cause major problems with RVLoader. Specifically I believe IOS 58, which houses the system menu, is the fucky one to not touch. Quite rare to get a 4 layer Wii that...

Yeah those 0.7w speakers were originally favoured for use with a weaker amp system. The U-Amp and RVL-Amp are notably stronger and really should be used with 1w or 1.5w speakers, but the availability for that in the same little form factor is greatly diminished overseas. Eventually when I get...

0.5w speakers might have peaking problems at lower volumes compared to the 0.7w ones from the BOM

You only need a VGA switch if you want to send VGA out to a TV. If you want to use composite out, then using a switch on the mode line is all you need. As for how to do it, you'll need to probe your RCA jack with a multimeter to find which 3.5mm jack band is for which coloured socket. Once you...

There's an easier way if you want just composite out. If you put a little switch on the wire that supplies 3.3v to MODE, you can turn that switch off to set the Wii back to low definition mode and it'll output composite video natively.